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Dometic DM2652 RBX

kadylady
Explorer
Explorer
We have a 2003 Springdale that we purchased used about 7 years ago. At that time we replaced the fridge with a new Dometic DM2652RBX. I have been extremely OCD about making sure the trailer/fridge is completely level before we run it. We aren't full time RVers, so it doesn't get constant use.
We just got back from a road trip. About 4 days in, the fridge quit working. We couldn't figure out what was wrong so bought an ice chest and made do.
Now that we're home, we leveled out the TT and my husband checked everything that he could and it seems to be getting power. He turned on the fridge so we could see if it worked at all. After a few hours I checked it and neither freezer or fridge cool, but the face of the refrigerator, between freezer and fridge, was very hot to the touch. Not the doors, but the space between them. Right in the center. I immediately turned it off.
Our regular RV place is really booked up. I'm hoping we don't already need a new fridge. This one does not have that many hours on it.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks.
51 REPLIES 51

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
The temp sensor is plugged into the main board. Yes, they can fail.

kadylady
Explorer
Explorer
The spot on the front seems to be hotter than I have ever noticed. When reaching in to touch the inside of freezer, my arm touched it and I have never noticed it to be HOT.

Husb said that the element (where it goes into tube) on the back got hot when he turned the fridge on yesterday.

Before we order a new cooling unit, I would like to know for sure.

Yes, we did move the sliding thermometer a couple times to see if that helped. It sure is a flimsy way to adjust the temp. Could that have gone out?? Not sure where that wire goes, but it doesn't seem like a very good system. We will be replacing that for sure.

turbojimmy
Explorer
Explorer
There's really no reason for there to be heat in the front other than a humidity control heater. I wouldn't be concerned about it. If the back is getting hot on both propane and electric, but it's still not cooling then I'm afraid it's toast. As someone else said, look for yellowish residue meaning the cooling unit breached. But sediment can also collect in the boiler and tubes that prevent the solution from circulating properly without any outside signs.
1984 Allegro M-31 (Dead Metal)

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
Dont worry about gas right now. Check first the coils and look for blockages. Without good air upflow it will not work properly.
BTW did the sensor on the far right fin inside the refer fet moved? It should be somewhere near the middle of the fin. There are instructions on adjusting it all over the place.

Isaac-1
Explorer
Explorer
This model of refrigerator has a heating element between the upper and lower section that is designed to prevent condensation from forming. So it is expected for that area to be warmer though should not be hot to the touch. Take a look at the information on this web page http://dave78chieftain.com/Technical.html

kadylady
Explorer
Explorer
@turbojimmy
I believe he said that the back was heating up, when he plugged it in yesterday. I turned it off after several hours when I noticed how hot the front was without any obvious cooling inside.

We did think at first that the propane might have been working, but then decided it probably wasn't. It was hard to decide what to do while camping. I had put ice inside to keep food cold for a day before i was able to buy an ice chest.

Should we try it on propane again. And will that HOT spot on front hurt anything? Sure had me worried because I don't remember ever feeling it that warm before.

Will have husband go up on roof and look down. See what he can see.

BTW.....it was working great until it stopped. We have been able to keep ice cream in the freezer with no issues. I usually turn on the fridge the day before we load it. Always keep a bottle of water in the freezer. It's always frozen solid the next morning.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Go looking with a tape measure.

https://freecampsites.net/adding-solar/

kadylady wrote:
@pianotuna
Not sure there is enough space for a residential refer in there, if that's what you mean.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
Get a mirror and flash light and look more closely. The cooling coils are usually painted gray. By using a mirror you should be able to easily see all the way to the top. You might also go up on the roof, take the vent cap off and look down from the roof. It is also possible your chimney is simply blocked by a bees nest

MitchF150
Explorer III
Explorer III
Does it cool on gas? I only run mine on gas anymore.. Just my preference and what works for me... ๐Ÿ™‚

If it don't work on gas either, it's likely it's lost it's fluid.

Good luck!

Mitch
2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.

turbojimmy
Explorer
Explorer
The heat on the front is probably a low-humidity switch turned on. It will heat up the front of it to help reduce condensation. It can be turned off. I forget what Dometic calls it, but on my Norcold it says "High Humidity"

What you need to check is if the back of it is getting hot. Carefully feel around the chimney area through the access door. There should be a lot of heat when the fridge is operating. If not, the control board isn't turning on the heating element.

Have you tried it on propane?
1984 Allegro M-31 (Dead Metal)

kadylady
Explorer
Explorer
Definitely convenient to have the propane option.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Many folks switch to Residential units. They cite assorted reasons and Even I can cite a few

For one Residential are a bit more power efficent (Less wattage) and often slightly more cubic feet of cold box.

BUT.. I've been in a park where Digger O-Dell dug the footing for a porch roof support RIGHT THROUGH THE HIGH TENSION POWER CABLE and it took 'em 3 days to power back on the park. that's a long time for a residentail fridge w/o power.

But the RV type simply switched to PROPANE.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

kadylady
Explorer
Explorer
The only Coil that can be seen from back panel is the bottom loop and a half of black hard tubing, 3/4" to 1" in size. Looks like it continues on up the back of refer, but I can't see any more of it. No yellow powder on that. No smell of ammonia from back panel.

How would that cause the hot spot on the front of refer? I am so NOT a mechanic. LOL

kadylady
Explorer
Explorer
OK thanks. I'm going to see if I can look and see anything. Thanks for the name of the supplier.

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
There are two boards on Dometic refers. The main control noard and an eyebrow board. The eyebrow board is the one with the buttons on it. If the refer is powering on then I suspect cooling unit failure. But before going there you need to check for power at the electric heating element. Its rare but possible it is burned out. Look really closely and smell the back of the refer. Any yellowish residue or stains or any smell of ammonia means the cooling unit has sprung a leak. Rvcoolung unit warehouse has them for your refer for $655. New.