Dometic Fridge not working

How cold is it outside?

When on electric, is the area around the element warm/hot?

If you have never ran it on propane before, you should check the pipe and air intake for any obstructions and if it is trying to light (sparking) or not and if it lights, then goes out or is not doing anything at all.

I only run my fridge on gas, so not sure on the electric side...

Good luck!

Mitch

You do not smell ammonia, but have you opened the back and looked? Are the coils warm/hot?

Display panel lights, interior light etc....ALL 12V DC

Electric doesn't use the 'check light'---that is only a function of propane side

If you have fridge in AUTO it will select AC as priority
No AC available it will swap to 'gas'...if gas fails to light/prove 'Check' Light comes on

In AUTO and fridge remains on AC the AC power is available, AC Fuse on circuit board is good BUT electric element is bad cause no cooling is happening
OR the cooling unit has fail (blockage)

If thermistor/preset thermostat fail then fridge goes into LIMP Mode....CONTINUOUS cooling which will freeze both freezer and food compartment

Sounds more like the electric element has failed
325W element.....44 ohms....2.7A when energized

2oldman wrote:
You do not smell ammonia, but have you opened the back and looked? Are the coils warm/hot?

Coils are doing nothing. Not warm nor hot.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Display panel lights, interior light etc....ALL 12V DC

Electric doesn't use the 'check light'---that is only a function of propane side

If you have fridge in AUTO it will select AC as priority
No AC available it will swap to 'gas'...if gas fails to light/prove 'Check' Light comes on

In AUTO and fridge remains on AC the AC power is available, AC Fuse on circuit board is good BUT electric element is bad cause no cooling is happening
OR the cooling unit has fail (blockage)

If thermistor/preset thermostat fail then fridge goes into LIMP Mode....CONTINUOUS cooling which will freeze both freezer and food compartment

Sounds more like the electric element has failed
325W element.....44 ohms....2.7A when energized

Ok where or how do you replace the electrical element?

Coils get warm when working.

BE CAREFUL!

Disconnect shore power, shut off propane

Get a handheld multimeter

Select RESISTANCE OHMS 1,000 ohms scale

Disconnect pair of wires that go into insulation on the vertical tube on the right side. These two wires are the AC power wires that go to the heater.

Disconnect the harness at the plastic disconnect coupling.

Turn meter on. and double check ohms again.

Touch the red and black test lead points together

Meter scale goes from blinking "1" to solid "0" right?

Touch red wire to one of the two wires LEADING TO THE HEATING ELEMENT

Touch the black wire to the OTHER wire leading to the heat element

What reading do you get?

Keep testing

Set meter to AC (NOT DC!) volts.

Reconnect shore power insure you do have shore power inside the rig.

Go to refrigerator. Do you now have power to the refrigerator? Good

Take meter with you. Remember it is to be set to AC volts 200 volt scale.

Remember the 2 connections you tested with the ohm meter?

This test has nothing to do with those 2 wires.

This test has to do with the other side. The twin wires you did not test.

BE CAREFUL you are working around live 120 volts AC

Keep your fingertips AWAY from the test lead metal points

Same type of test

One meter probe to one wire the 2nd meter probe to it's twin.

How many volts do you see?

Check back on the forum with the results of your meter testing.

Video for testing, checking fuse and replacing element.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KMHamcidMo

Turn fridge ON in AUTO with AC Power hooked up

GO to outside compartment and feel 'stack' area where the 2 leads go into shield
Area should warm up noticeably IF element is working


The element leads (black) connect to circuit board at J7 & J8 terminals