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AJB's avatar
AJB
Explorer
Sep 17, 2014

Dometic RM1350MIMX no electric

I have a 2013 RM1350 that has stopped running on AC, runs fine on LP.
I checked the outlet and have power. Did a diagnostic test that is in the manual and when I do Test 3 "Turn AC heater on" I get no reading. When I do test 4 "D+ status alternator voltage" I get no reading. Everything else tests fine. Anybody have any ideas.
  • Turns out it was the 5 amp fuse in the control panel.
  • AJB wrote:
    I have a 2013 RM1350 that has stopped running on AC, runs fine on LP.
    I checked the outlet and have power. Did a diagnostic test that is in the manual and when I do Test 3 "Turn AC heater on" I get no reading. When I do test 4 "D+ status alternator voltage" I get no reading. Everything else tests fine. Anybody have any ideas.


    When you say you get "no reading" on test 3, what do you mean- you get no voltage on the heater terminals, or the display is blank? If the display is blank, check the fuse on the board. On the D+ test, the engine needs to be running to give a display of O N, and the D+ terminal needs to be hooked up (this is for the auto door lock, and not on every 1350).
  • The d+ status is ONLY if they connected to Ignition side of the chassis engine to auto lock the refer doors when the ignition is ON. Nothing else it does. Follow the 120 element wires (you have 2 elements connected together) to the control board. With the refer on Electric (auto), measure between the 2 spade terminals AT the control board for 120. The odds are you will NOT have 120 power there. Then check the fuse for the 120 on the board. IF you do have 120 at the Heater connections, then the elements are bad. Doug
  • If your unit is out of warranty,

    You can check the AC heating element to determine if it or the controller board is bad. (AC power is dangerous, do this test only if you understand electrical safety)

    There will be 2 leads coming out from the element which is located adjacent to the boiler, which is directly above the LP burner. Follow them back to the controller board and disconnect at the board.

    Connect the leads directly to a 120V power cord and plug in. You'll have to make jumpers to connect the element with the cord.

    A good cooling unit with no control board should bring the frig below 32 degrees overnight.

    If it works with the element connected direct to AC, you have a bad control board.

    If it doesn't work you have a bad element.

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