Dometic RM2862 no panel lights

[foszoe]

Hi,

Just picked up a used 2007 Copper Canyon with the Dometic RM 2862 refrigerator at a dealer. The dealer had everything hooked up and running on AC but also had a battery charger hooked to the battery because the 12V was dead. Everything worked. Fridge was cooling. It was an as is sale.

Got home and the next day I wanted to run it on propane to see how it worked. It would not start. I checked fuses and found one blown but not labelled anything obvious like "fridge".

I swapped out the fuse and also took the battery out while disconnected to charge it. When I put the battery back in, the fridge started up and ran for 5 hours cooling down slowly but steady enough. So I shut it off.

I was thinking the fuse was the issue but then read manuals talking about the importance of voltage so I went out and tried to turn on the fridge. It didn't come on. The voltage at the battery was 9.2 and by the time I got to the back of the fridge it was in the 8s. Ah ha I said!. It's a voltage issue. I swapped the battery out and the same mysterious fuse in the power center blew. I replaced it. Now I had 12.54V at the battery and 12.37 at the back of the fridge. I go inside and hit the on/off button....nothing.

I checked the thermofuse button I had read about and it could not be pushed in. I disconnected the battery and disconnected the wires to the thermofuse. The reset button now moved in and out quite easily and the thermofuse continuity check passed.

Now I am stuck. Anything I have missed? What are next steps?

Thanks for any help!

[DFord]

Be sure to remove power (unplug the power cord) before grabbing that 5 amp fuse!

[wa8yxm]

9.2 is not enough voltage to run the fridge.. 10+ minimum NOt sure how much plus.

Sounds like the converter is .. toast.. Now converters are found in one of two places.. If the power distribution center has both 12 volt fuses and 120 volt breakers behind the same door.. Odds are the converter is behind it (part of the assembly) replace with Progressive Dynamics 4600 Series

If the fuses and breakers are in different panels like in my RV. then the converter can be anywhere.. I'd start looking in the most illogical place (As far from battteries as you can get) cause in my rig.. that's where they put it.

Same for some other stuff. I keep shaking my head thinking "Why the (expletive deleted) did they PUT THAT THERE.

[Old-Biscuit]

3A Fuse ..... left side is for the DC controls
5A Fuse ..... center is for the AC circuit and element

[DFord]

Doug, is that 5amp fuse on the board 12v or 120v? I thought is was 120v to protect the heating element if it shorted out.

[dougrainer]

1. I don't understand something. Granted you purchased AS-IS. But WHY would the dealer not install a new battery??????? Would you buy a car AS-IS with NO battery or a BAD battery and the selling dealer had it connected to a battery Charger just to get the Auto started to get you off the lot?
2. IF you have 12 volts thru the Thermo switch to the Refer rear main control board, remove the cover and check the 12 volt fuse on that board. Doug

PS, we sell quite a few Towables as is and they always have a functional battery.

[DFord]

DFord wrote:
This all sounds familiar. Sounds like same problem from a few days ago.

Sorry about the mix up - that was a Norcold problem.

The refrigerator controls require 12v to operate. You must have a source of 12 volt power. The electric heather element is 120 volts and you must be pulled into a 120 volt power source for it to keep the refrigerator cold. You can get by without 120 volt power by switching to propane (LP) as long as you've got 12 volt power available.

[DFord]

This all sounds familiar. Sounds like same problem from a few days ago.

[newman_fulltime]

First thing you need a new converter then go from there if there are any continuing problems