Electrical issue

The battery does not switch out unless you hit the switch to switch it out. It stays online so it can charge from the converter/charger.

No lights on shore power is both the converter is bad AND the battery is bad, dead or turned off.

When you plug into shore power, the battery is switched out and the converter supplies 12V. No lights on shore power, the converter is bad.

John Wayne wrote:
Are you sure everything works when you are plugged in to shore power what is the voltage at the battery posts should be around 13 volts or better, If just 12.5 or so your converter is NOT charging your batteries they will run down till your in the same boat you started with.

This is wonderful advice.

time2roll wrote:
Verify the new battery holds about 13.6 volts when plugged in several days.

Actually, the battery is not holding 13.6v. The converter is putting out 13.6v. A battery will not be over about 12.8v unless on a charger or briefly with a surface charge.

A converter putting out 13.6v continuously is a battery killer. It is a single stage charger and will boil batteries dry. A good converter/charger is 3 or 4 stage. It will charge at 14.4v to 14.8v for a few hours to get the battery back to 90% charged, then drop to 13.6v for up to a day to get the battery back to 100% charged, then drop to about 13.2v as a trickle charger to keep the batteries topped off.

Verify the new battery holds about 13.6 volts when plugged in several days.

Are you sure everything works when you are plugged in to shore power what is the voltage at the battery posts should be around 13 volts or better, If just 12.5 or so your converter is NOT charging your batteries they will run down till your in the same boat you started with.

It was just the battery. Got a new battery and everything works

Thank you for your replies and advice.

wa8yxm wrote:
Best thing to use is a good smart converter like the Progressive Dynamics 4600 upgrade to many integrated converters or the 9200 for a stand alone

The PD4655 is so good that I installed one in my previous RV and used it for 8 years before selling the RV.

I installed one in my new RV as soon as I got the RV home. I had the converter/charger even BEFORE I had the RV.

I bought a third one, put a 3 prong cord on the AC wires, and battery clips on the DC wires, and use it for my portable battery charger at home on all of my vehicles.

With the PD4655, I leave the RV plugged in and charging the battery 24/7/365. I NEVER would have done that with the single stage charger that came with either one of my RVs (a Parallax 7345, then a Parallax 8355).

You say the battery was on a trickle charger all winter
Trickle chargers come in three types

1 Too small, will not keep up with self discharge
2: Too large: will damage battery if connected all winter

3: Battery Tender/Battery Minder.. Smart enough to not damage battery however may still be too small.

Which one did you use?

Best thing to use is a good smart converter like the Progressive Dynamics 4600 upgrade to many integrated converters or the 9200 for a stand alone

No the camper wasn't plugged in all winter. The battery was inside on a trickle charger. No not plugged into a dryer outlet, just a regular standard outlet outside. Maybe the converter needs replacing then?

So I guess we will need a new battery too.

surgtech56 wrote:
So if I don't have a fully charged battery hooked up, the electric won't work even if it's plugged into house current?

You still need 10+ volts to run the electronic controls and thermostats.
The converter should supply this voltage when you remove the dead battery.
Converter should give about 13.6 volts... does it?

I assume you plugged into a standard 15 amp outlet... if you somehow put the cord into a dryer outlet there is more trouble.