Bad connection.... First: That outlet gets it's power from a GFCI outlet somewhere, Likely the bathroom.. likewise the patio outlet gets it's power from the same source
Suspect list includes the connections behind the GFCI. the outlet in question and the patio outlet. also all other GFCI protected outlets if any (I have one over the dining room table)
Standard RV outlets are "Quick Box" type, where you lay the wires in a channel and PUNCH them Down.. Now I have had telephone installers explain to me they have been using punch down connections for a long long time and no problems (True, I know I've seen 'em, used them myself) but those connections carry a fraction of an amp. The punch down (And I might add Scotch lock) connectors are great at low current,, but crank up the amps and they quickly fail..
An electric skillet along with a coffee pot and a toaster.. That's a lot of amps.
The connections overheat and burn.. you get hot wire smell (not good, scary in fact) and either a bad connection,,, or a fire.
Next. I've had very bad luck with wire nut connections between stranded and solid wire.. Like in back of the GFCI
So your have one of two chains
Breaker box---GFCI----Kitechen--Other outelts
Or
Breaker box---GFCI---Other outlet(s)---Kitechen---Optional other outlet(s).
(Actually that's 3 differnet chains.
TRhe problem is between GFCI and KITCHEN.
Oh, forgot.. If the kitchen (or the GFCI) is in a slide out, then there will be two junction boxes under the slide out, one on the moving part one on the main body part.. Those too are on the list.
Finally.. though I replaced my failed Quick Box with another just like it, I also added some heavy duty outlets to take the load off it (it's not in the kitchen, a space heater took it out.. I now have dedicated space heater outelts)
If replacing them I really like the idea,, where you can do it, of using a traditinal box and outlet and bending bare wire around a screw and tightening it down.. Far better connection, 100s of times the contact area, less likely to flame on. If the kitchen is the first outlet in the chain try this.. If not.. Well whatever outlet you replace.. If you can do it that way, do so.. Might not be possible.
(NOTE: I really like the way this motor home is layed out.. where they put the pwoer distribution panel is central and easily accessed, both front and rear I put one HD outlet (15/20 amp) in the bedroom 20 amp breaker all to itself, about 18" of 12ga wire hooking it up If you pull the outlet and look in the hole you actually SEE the back of the outlet box.
The other HD outlet went in the living room 15 amp breaker (was out of 20's at the time) 12 ga wire, about six to 10 feet (did not measure) runs across to the wall following existing wire channels and into the wire/plumbing channel that services the front toilet.. Across behind the toilet (under the riser) and to the outlet, Again wide open run, no obstructions to drill through.. That puts heaters where I need it most.
A 3rd single 15/20 (not a duplex) is fed off the rear A/C circuit, which can be fed by a 12 ga cord.. (You do not use heat and A/C at the same time) plus there is a dedicated 12ga extension cord so I can run up to 4 space heaters without overloading... (I have yet to do that but the extension cord and the dedicated 15/20 single were installed at different times) But the way they layed this house out. Adding all those outlets was child's play.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times
