Fantastic Fan Quit

drsteve wrote:
When you suspect that you're getting voltage and no current, use a test lamp instead of the multimeter.

or a testing clip fan. lol

When you suspect that you're getting voltage and no current, use a test lamp instead of the multimeter.

Solved.

The plastic fuse holder was broken up inside. I think it just got old and brittle. The fuse must have been just barely touching the metal and showing voltage, but not enough to run anything.



I do not have a replacement fuse holder, so took the one out of my spare fan for now.

I was dreading a new wire run (expanding foam all in the ceiling) or whatever other fix it could have been.

FF is going to send me a new fuse holder. The fan is 15 years old even.

I did check the fuse, but there is no point to check any fuses since I do get 12 volts. The 12 volts I am measuring is AT the fan. I cut the wires AT THE FAN so as far as voltage goes there is nothing to check.

I got a response from Fantasticfan people. The woman seemed to have no knowledge of the subject of electricity or fans. She attached a picture of the fan which had the switch, fuse, temp setting all labeled, which was of no use. She could not process in her head that I tested and got 12 volts AT THE FAN motor either.

The motor works since I was able to connect it straight to a battery and see it run just fine.

Somewhere there is a weak link causing the amps to drop to near zero, enough to show 12 volts, but not enough to run anything.

I connected a clip fan to the FF assembly and it would not run either, The clip fan is much smaller. I may try something tiny just to see if I can get anything to work…

Maybe the fan speed control could be the culprit. It uses a resistor to lower fan speed.so maybe issues there. I have a real speed control that I may just replace this one with. I think it would be more efficient than just burning off power in the form of heat to make the fan run slower.

I will take it all apart later tonight and then can test the incoming voltage before all the switches.

Did you check the fuse in the FF itself (not the one in the panel)?

ScottG wrote:
You say you have 12V going to the "fan". Does that mean to the motor itself or to the FF assembly?
If someone reverses the direction while the blades are turning, it can/will blow the fuse. I would check that first.

If you have the black motor, keep it as long as you can. It is infinitely better than it's new pancake motor replacement.

Yep but neither is what I'd call a quality motor.

Lippert (who owns the not so fantastic fan company now) believes in buying cheap. The zinc irridite motors are lowest bidder Chinese junk, but the black case one's are only marginally better.

Neither is superlative because of the construction and the fact that neither can be disassembled to lube the bearings or replace the brushes.

The problem is internal. The motors use a flat faced commutator with vertical brushes so brush wear is accelerated and you cannot separate the end bells from the case because they are spot welded, making the only option, replacement. When they start making noise it's time to order a new one because the brushes are shot. Sometimes, whacking the case with a small hammer will dislodge the brushes from the holders and allow some more use, but noise equals it's new motor time in reality.

Great design. The alternative Henigs or whatever they are called is, in reality, a much better setup and cheaper. Fantastic fan is all about maximum profit with minimal quality and they know you'll be buying a replacement motor so they can sock it to you.

Expensive junk, but then a lot of 'stuff' in an RV is expensive junk to replace like the wonderful Jensen sound systems or Furrion TV's. Sub standard junk.

I had one with a ground wire that was either loose or corroded. Cleaned up the ground and tightened it and all was well.

TomC

I cut the wires just before the fan motor and tested there, so there is power going through all the switches and lids and speed controls.

I have seen DC test show 12 on the multimeter but no have amps to do anything, like it was running through just one strand of wire in a place. This has to be it, or corroded wires, unless someone knows another reason. i contacted the company but it might be 48 hours for their reply

Fan lid activates a small plunger switch. Spay with lubricant.

You say you have 12V going to the "fan". Does that mean to the motor itself or to the FF assembly?
If someone reverses the direction while the blades are turning, it can/will blow the fuse. I would check that first.

If you have the black motor, keep it as long as you can. It is infinitely better than it's new pancake motor replacement.