Ford 460 engine questions/issues

[TheWanderer]

Hey everyone, new to the forums and new to RV ownership. (Owned about 2 months now).
Firstly, HI! nice to join a community of like minded travelers!

I own a 26 foot 1988 ford gulfstream rv.

Ok so I am doing a fairly major overhaul on the Ford E350 v8 460 block engine. It has had a handful of things replaced already (starter, map sensor, pcv valve and tubing, spark plugs, etc etc.) and now I am working on lifting the engine to access the oil pump and crankshaft bearings. I just had a couple things I have run into I am unsure on.
Firstly, does anyone who has done work on this engine have any further tips for oil pan removal?? I have never had to go through so much just to get the dang oil pan off on a vehicle! The frame is 1 inch below the 7 inch deep oil pan. So in order to get the pan off and around the oil pump and crank and such, I have to lift the motor at least 5-6 inches. That meant removing a LOT including the throttle body, which leads me to my second question.
I cannot seem for the life of me to find a matching replacement for my bottom gasket for the throttle body, where it mounts to the engine. I will try and link a photo of it to show what mine looks like, but i cannot seem to find a replacement anywhere! It flaked some upon removal of the throttle body.


Thanks in advance for any advice or help!! I am quickly learning a LOT about this engine and RV with all the work i am doing. (I was basically scammed in purchasing a used RV. Tip for others/the future, GET SOMEONE TO INSPECT IT FIRST!)

Hope y'all have a great day, happy trails!

[mountainkowboy]

RLS7201 wrote:
Wanderer, I find it amazing that those that don't have the talent to repair an engine properly, just assume you are also less talented and will screw up the job.
We both know full well that some of us have the talent to make successful repairs in spite of them.
Go for it! Let us know what a good job you did.

If you really want to have some fun, I'll show ya how to make a hard pulling stroker engine out of that ol 460.

Richard

I have no problem wrenching on anything....but I can't "down" Red for very long since it's my DD and I can order one and just swap it out over the weekend.

[mountainkowboy]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
If someone were really really talented, they'd guarantee the monster they built would increase horsepower, decrease fuel consumption

[COLOR=]A N D

Pass state emission control standards

To get a current license plate.

:R

Don's have to worry about emission in rural Oregon, but the Parkland engine will pass.

[RLS7201]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
If someone were really really talented, they'd guarantee the monster they built would increase horsepower, decrease fuel consumption

[COLOR=]A N D

Pass state emission control standards

To get a current license plate.

:R

Well I got two of the 3 right. My fuel mileage stayed the same.

Richard

[MEXICOWANDERER]

If someone were really really talented, they'd guarantee the monster they built would increase horsepower, decrease fuel consumption

[COLOR=]A N D

Pass state emission control standards

To get a current license plate.

:R

[RLS7201]

Wanderer, I find it amazing that those that don't have the talent to repair an engine properly, just assume you are also less talented and will screw up the job.
We both know full well that some of us have the talent to make successful repairs in spite of them.
Go for it! Let us know what a good job you did.

If you really want to have some fun, I'll show ya how to make a hard pulling stroker engine out of that ol 460.

Richard

[mountainkowboy]

We haven't decided on if we will keep Red, our 1990 F350 460/ZF-5 truck, and if we do I will have a 460 built by Parkland for it. It will cost 6K but will have well over 500lbs of tq, get the same mpg as I get now, and use the existing factory EFI. I would LOVE my truck with 150 more pounds of torque...it isn't a slouch now!

[TheWanderer]

Oh for sure, I am DEFINITELY not expecting this to get the engine to run like new. Haha more to hopefully just give me a couple mpg bump from the 4mpg I was getting, and give it back a lot of its power and oil pressure. Still will likely need to look at replacing the camshaft down the road at some point among other things, but I dont have to lift the motor for that like I do all this, so it could be more easily attained while traveling and after working to re-imbursing myself for the cost I am already into it. (This RV is my home currently and is working up to be a cross country rig for a couple years or so, just wasnt expecting THIS major of work.)
The transmission still shifts and such super smooth, no problems at all there and its getting full fluid change from being removed and drain bolt removed, so I am not too worried about that.
In the end I will basically give it a full rebuild, but can't all at once out of necessity from a time/budget stance.
This will rebuild basically the entire lower end of the engine at least and between new oil pump, starter, timing chain, crankshaft, bearings, and a handfull of sensors as well as all 8 spark plugs, finished with a full fluids change including lucas additives I feel like I will see a pretty substantial Improvement to the terrible performance it had beforehand.
It has also given me an opportunity to really inspect most of the rest of the components pretty well, and gives me much more confidence and all of my vacuum lines and hoses and such.
I am really on the edge of my seat to see what kind of improvement in performance and oil pressure I will see from this first major work set.
I appreciate any input or advice in this journey, and thank you for the understanding in my budget / time limitations. 🙂

[MEXICOWANDERER]

You'll spend 1K for excessive burned oil, another X dollars to replace oil-fouled spark plugs and god only knows how much in wasted gasoline.

Camshafts go flat rung lands become tapered instead of exactly angled channels..

Just don't expect miracles. You'll get a patch job

[77rollalong]

see what the cost is on a long block, then just add you intake, oil pan, valve covers etc.

[TheWanderer]

I really don't have $3k to drop on an entire new motor.

[Bird_Freak]

I agree. I would Ford long block it. Motor has had some trash to get the bearings like that. Hate to think what the cam bearings and cam look like. By the time you tear it down and vat the block, polish or turn crank and clean it all back up your better off with a long block with a Ford warranty good nation wide.

[TheWanderer]

I feel like there isnt an oil slinger on my original crank?
Also I cannot seem to even find another crank with the narrower flywheel mounting plate, they all seem to be the same as the one I just placed on order.
Fingers crossed it will work as described.
At least I will be sure the bearings and crank relation will be as it should be!

[TheWanderer]

http://imgur.com/a/1Ag0aIU





Sorry for the link for the first photo, it is a png so it will not upload here. 😕

[TheWanderer]

Okay,
I have decided to order a remanufactured crankshaft that I found on RockAuto for a good price. It even comes with the proper oversized bearings for both the mains and the rods. I have a question regarding the item before I order it though.
The listing says it does not include the rear oil slinger.
Not entirely sure what that means?
Based on the photos for the listing, the rear connection for the drive shaft does look built somewhat differently, but the same bolt layout.
I will post some photos for reference, but my question is:
A: does the difference in design at the back end pose a problem, or is this common for reman cranks?
B: do I need to find a way to install a oil Slinger somehow on the remanufactured crank?
Thanks in advance!