joelyn wrote:
OK, when I got up this Am i contacted my car ins. company (Geico), they also insure our trailer and explained the problem with my lock and he stated that we are covered for a locksmith to come out up to 100.00 per incident. So they contacted a locksmith in our area and they found one that would do the job for 55.00.
So 2 hours later he showed up and stuck a lock picking pick in the cylinder and popped open the lock. he said that on these FIC locks a pin inside sometimes slips making the lock think its locked and somehow will not let the key to be inserted. He stated that it happens sometimes as the lock gets older and the parts start to wear down inside.
Great that you've had your situation resolved but your locksmith's explanation is generalized at best and doesn't necessarily address the specific issue with FIC locks that are subject to recall. This fault isn't directly attributed to wear but rather is a well known failure with FIC locks manufactured between Jan 1, 2006 and Apr 30, 2013, as noted in the FIC Lock Recall ...
"Why is a recall being conducted?
Under normal use and operation, the key to the deadbolt lock can only be removed in the 12 oโclock (neutral) and 3 oโclock (unlocked) positions. In certain FIC locks made between January 1, 2006 and April 30, 2013, the key may be able to also be removed from the deadbolt cylinder when the key is in the 9 oโclock position. This condition may cause the deadbolt to jam, which could prevent occupants inside the trailer from being able to unlock the door from the inside and exit the trailer through the door, requiring them instead to use the emergency exit and potentially increasing the risk of injury."
This recall has been in effect for some time now so anyone who owns a trailer with an FIC lock assembly can easily identify whether the locks on their particular unit are part of the recall and even though you still haven't indicated the key number for your particular failed lock my bet it's on that recall list, meaning it was only a matter of time before it failed.
I maintain that 2112's suggestion of taking a Dremel tool to a failed $30 lock to remove it, at the risk of that Dremel inadvertently slipping a destroying a $500 door, is a terrible idea. :E However, I have to also thank him as it's got me thinking even more about my own emergency entry process into our trailer should the entry door lock ever fail. Here's a pic of the pass through cargo compartment in our current trailer which is typical of most travel trailers with a front queen island bed ...
That centre piece of paneling is the same piece shown in this next pic taken from inside the trailer ...
Removing this panel from the pass through cargo compartment side would be difficult if the underbed storage area has items stored in it but if I were to instead mount that panel from the pass through cargo compartment side I'd be able to easily access that underbed storage area from the pass through to empty it and then crawl in, putting me inside the trailer. At that point I'd simply push up on the hinged portion of the bed platform to gain full entry to the interior of the trailer. Another option - since that above picture was taken I've added cabinet doors to the end of the bed platform ...
I doubt I could squeeze through one of those openings but a 10 yr old sure would, at which point that same 10 yr old could remove the screws securing the entry door lock. Considering this is such an easy and obvious solution for most to gain entry into their travel trailer in a case where the entry door lock may have failed there's not a chance I'd ever consider taking a Dremel tool or pry or anything else to the door lock. :E
