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Furnace control board replacment

Dr_Quick
Explorer II
Explorer II
As some of you might recall while I was on vacation about 6 weeks ago, my furnace quit. After having posted the problem the number one reason was most likely the control board. Since we had an electric heater with us, we continued our trip and make out fine.
When I got home I took the furnace out from below the stove and took it out of the enclosure. I had to disconnect the wires, but first marked which wire colors connected to each other. Note one blue wire for the thermostat had a white band on as it was thermostat wire specific. Remove out side air/exhaust. Remove front metal pane, then there is one screw at each lower corner that holds furnace down. But first I used a marker do a line at edge of rear of cabinet at wall, then front of cabinet at floor for future alignment. Had to pull furnace out a bit to disconnect gas line after gas was off. There is one screw at lower front center that holds cabinet to insides of furnace. I pulled furnace out of cabinet, then I turned it 90 deg to the cabinet and connected the gas line, (see photo note), used jumper wires for power, then contacted the two blue hemostat wires to try furnace.
This where it gets interesting, I connected the two blue wires and it came on and it worked perfect. I could only conclude that either jarring from the trip or me taking furnace out allowed it to work. (Note I had door and windows open due to furnace exhaust)
I decided to order a new board, but the I ended up with the wrong one. It was a universal board that was to big, and the furnace needs the small board that has the fan control wiring. This shuts off fan after about 10 minutes if it does not fire.
I reordered the correct board and I have marked where the extra wires for the fan control go on picture.
To get the board out, you have to take out the top screw of the fan housing (See picture) and the lower screw to get clearance to slide board out. You will notice I have indicated the location of a metal strip that holds the board in place. I had to remove it with a pliers in order to get it out. The new Dinosaur is a bit wider so metal strip was not necessary to re install. Put every thing back together and ran furnace for 15 minutes and it worked fine


Dr Quick
2 REPLIES 2

77rollalong
Explorer
Explorer
We just had problems with our Suburban with the ignitor circuit not producing any spark last weekend. Well for the furnace being 40 years old I guess things happen, replaced the neon lamp beside the high voltage coil and its now back working again.

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
One of the first things I try when the board is suspect is to pull off the wiring edge connector and clean the contacts on the board with a pencil eraser. It only takes a small amount of corrosion to cause the furnace to malfunction. The "quick fix" is to just slide the connector on and off a few times to let it self clean, but the longer term fix is to properly clean the contacts. I also keep a spare universal board from Dinosaur on hand that will work with either our furnaces or water heater.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate