Gray Holding Tank leak

I had the same but leaking from top of black tank (yuck) into heated enclosed underbelly. Spinweld fitting of toilet down pipe to tank was leaking. Ended up getting it off and installing a 3" rubber holding tank grommet.
I was dreading having to drop the tank.

I thank you all for your input. The tank is leaking from the top and running down the rear of. The Gray tank stretches over both frame rails. The passenger side is supported by a "L" bracket that is welded to the frame. I removed the heating vent from the side of the tub to look in. There appears to be a solid floor under the tuv without any access panel. It was suggested to pour dyed water of different colors to narrow down the source. I still need to lower it to fix the leak.

I have over 38 years and still working as an RV Tech. I have NEVER seen a Holding tank that cannot be removed without lifting the body of the RV. Since you are a novice, you need to go to an experienced RV Service Center for help. They all come out from the bottom. The attached down pipes are the problems but can be accessed and cut loose. Doug

I had to repair my black tank this spring. It had cracked at the outlet pipe transition. I used Plasti-Mend Black.

Plasti-Mend

This stuff is fantastic. I believe the tank is better now than when it was new. Check it out.

-Drew

Road Trip Time wrote:
I recently purchased a 1995 Ford e350 with a 1996 Dutchman Class C Camper on it. I discovered the gray holding tank leaking. It appears like the camper will have to be lifted off the frame to remove the tank. Any thought or possibly a link to a decent youtube video.

Thank in advance
John

Have you priced what that tank is going to cost?

I had a blow out on one of my first Class C's that went into my sewage bay and shattered the black and gray tank bay and fittings. I called for an estimate for the replacement tank and found it is all one piece tank and bay. At the time it was well over a couple of thousand dollars. It was for a 1997 four winds Class C.

It was replaceable and NO they do not lift up your chassis.

There are so many good epoxy glues that can be used on so many types of plastic now. I would call you local RV dealership parts department and ask what they use to patch RV tanks.

Have you actually located the hole in the tank? Because when they leak it can come from the screws on the blades and the leak looks like it's coming from the tank.

You'll want to virtually anything but lift the House off the Chassis. On Boats, it's sometimes needed to replace a tank by cutting it out and installing a smaller one, or two smaller ones that are connected. I don't think we could get away with two connected BLACK tanks, but with Gray, you probably could. But you'd want to do what we do, which is try very hard to not let anything solid go down the gray tank drain.

Lifting the box of a class C off the frame is usually, for all practical purposes, impossible. Often they are welded together and not really separate units. Even if they are not welded together, it's been built up on the chassis and not designed to be separated.

It may be possible to patch the tank, depending on where the leak is. It may also be possible to cut a hole in the floor and get access from the inside of the RV. It may be infeasible to repair or replace it with an identical tank, but perhaps possible to have a somewhat smaller tank constructed that could fit into the space.

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