Clogged toilet valve supply and sink faucet. TT bought new April 2018, checked anode when winterizing, 2018, 70-80% remaining. 2019 30-40% remaining. Only went camping once this year recently. I dewinterized and sanitized the the FW tank in late May. Ordered in new anode and water heater cleaning wand after removing the toilet to clean out the flush valve screen. Anode completely gone, flushed out much debris.I will NEVER go over two camping seasons/years on anode replacement and at about $6 a rod shopping around, one per year is cheap insurance.STRONGLY recommend getting the water heater cleaning wand and using it, as a minimum, when winterizing examining/replacing the anode.

If there is a downside to RVing it is how lack of maintenance comes back to bite you.

Shine a light and feel around where you can. I had stubborn deposits. Was told a vinegar flush is safe.Im a dum dum. Bought the trailer used. Pulled the anode rod. Looked pretty long to me. Like a long wire. Put it back in and waited 6 months. Came to find out that was a totally used up anode rod!!!! Didnt realize the darn thing was supposed to be a half inch thick.

wopachop wrote:Shine a light and feel around where you can. I had stubborn deposits. Was told a vinegar flush is safe.Im a dum dum. Bought the trailer used. Pulled the anode rod. Looked pretty long to me. Like a long wire. Put it back in and waited 6 months. Came to find out that was a totally used up anode rod!!!! Didnt realize the darn thing was supposed to be a half inch thick.Actually they are about 3/4" diameter.

Installing a new anode will still shed as much sacrificial material off as an older one taking into account the older rod still has sacrificial material remaining, and the water chemistry is the same. So installing new may make you feel better, but its not going to stop aerator screens and such from clogging. A solution looking for a problem.

Lwiddis wrote:If there is a downside to RVing it is how lack of maintenance comes back to bite you.Not only RVing. The most expensive maintenance is deferred maintenance.

Hard lesson learned on water heater anode. | Good Sam Community

Rover_Bill
Explorer II
Oct 22, 2020
Hmm.. Learned something new! Don't open the low point drains until after the water heater has been bypassed. Thanks for the tip! :)
Boomerweps
Explorer
Oct 20, 2020
Rover_Bill wrote:
Boomerweps wrote:
Clogged toilet valve supply...
:?

Does your toilet use HOT water for flushing? I hope you're using an inline water filter on your water supply - both city water connection and to fill your fresh water tank. :W

Normally use an inline filter.
The theory was draining with the low point drains with the water heater not bypassed can pull crud in to the cold water line. I don’t know, but the crud looked suspiciously like that seen on the anode rod previously.
I did not use a filter when filling the tank when I was adding bleach for sanitizing.
It could have been an algae from the water setting for most of five months BUT the water stank of chlorine with initial use when I finally went camping.
Won’t dewinterize until within days of camping next time.
Rover_Bill
Explorer II
Oct 18, 2020
Boomerweps wrote:
Clogged toilet valve supply...
:?

Does your toilet use HOT water for flushing? I hope you're using an inline water filter on your water supply - both city water connection and to fill your fresh water tank. :W
Boomerweps
Explorer
Oct 18, 2020
The TT was Dewinterized and sat with systems full of water till the October camping. I keep my TT plugged in while in storage. While the water heater is turned off, the chassis ground eddy current might be affecting the anode, too.
The sink faucet will be removed soon because the cold still has minimal flow. Hopefully, clean and replace. Otherwise, just replace with new ;(
edatlanta
Explorer
Oct 18, 2020
I fulltime and change my anode rod every year. Some years it is used up more and some less, but for the price - why risk the heater tank.
MitchF150
Explorer III
Oct 18, 2020
Question to OP.. Did you leave water in the HW tank between trips? The only reason I ask is I now have the brand that has the rod.... I had the other brand before and never an issue.. Wish I had that brand!

Anyway, since I don't, I drain the HW tank between trips. I've checked the rod after using it about 5 times for 4 day long weekend trips with about 4 weeks between trips during the summer.

It still looks brand new.

I know they are cheap, but if all I need to do is drain the tank between trips, I'll do that.

Sure, if you are full time or using it every weekend... Well, not so much!

Thanks, Mitch
Edd505
Explorer
Oct 18, 2020
don't go the cheapest route get a good Magnesium rod, cost a bit more. Sacrifices faster to save the tank. Small price to pay, under $15, I carry a spare.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Oct 18, 2020
Lwiddis wrote:
If there is a downside to RVing it is how lack of maintenance comes back to bite you.

Not only RVing. The most expensive maintenance is deferred maintenance.
GDS-3950BH
Explorer
Oct 17, 2020
Installing a new anode will still shed as much sacrificial material off as an older one taking into account the older rod still has sacrificial material remaining, and the water chemistry is the same. So installing new may make you feel better, but its not going to stop aerator screens and such from clogging. A solution looking for a problem.
Lynnmor
Explorer
Oct 17, 2020
wopachop wrote:
Shine a light and feel around where you can. I had stubborn deposits. Was told a vinegar flush is safe.

Im a dum dum. Bought the trailer used. Pulled the anode rod. Looked pretty long to me. Like a long wire. Put it back in and waited 6 months. Came to find out that was a totally used up anode rod!!!! Didnt realize the darn thing was supposed to be a half inch thick.

Actually they are about 3/4" diameter.