House batteries not charging 2005 Sunvoyager

Tracing those 12V wires that were shorted are my next move. They shouldn't be, in any way, connected to the converter. There are no 12V wires going into or out of the converter. When the battery wires are connected to the converter I get a reading of whatever the batteries voltage is at. If they are fully charged, I'll get that reading . If they are low, that is the voltage I get at the output of the converter.

Yeah, tracing down wire damage can be a real pain. Somewhere along the way you are going to see a "shudda" junction that should have the same voltage on both sides but doesn't. You are certain through that behind the fuse panel all wires are in universal shape consistent high or low voltage as far as you can reach?

No chance those 12 volt wires in that box were the converter output voltage path to connect to the battery?

Intelli_power 9180 output is 13.6V with battery wire removed. When I insert the battery wires the reading drops to the low battery voltage of 9.6V.

You are saying when the Intelli-Power is connected to the batteries the intellipower reading is 9 point 6 volts?

Going back to the beginning. It all started when I wired a 120V outlet that also had 12V wires in it. I didn't take care in placing the 12V out of the way and they created a short in that box. I later removed the 12V wires and Looked for a blown fuse but found none.A few days later The house lights were dimming. The 2 12V deep cycle batteries tested "Poor" with a hydrometer so I replaced them. Intelli_power 9180 output is 13.6V with battery wire removed. When I insert the battery wires the reading drops to the low battery voltage of 9.6V. The stud mount breaker check out fine. The Hi-amp Bussman breaker also fine.I added an new chassis ground to be sure that had a clean connection. I can run the RV engine for 10 minutes and get enough of a charge to get us through 12 hours. Right now I have a Genius 750 trickle charger going for 2 hours. Hopeful in the morning we'll have enough power built up in the batteries. Could I have melted some wired and still have a short??? I'm completely out of ideas and probably seek professional help.

The stud mount breaker and the hi amp Bussman breakers are working.

Just for info, there is not always a fuse or CB between converter and battery.

For now, run another temporary postive wire,....get them Batts charged.

(Paul Hogan Crocodile Dundee)

"Now HERE's a circuit breaker"



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bussmann-BP-CB185-80-80-Amp-Circuit-Breaker/332413792394?epid=1512125833&hash=item4d6567f08a:g:fI4AAOSw1CBZ45hm

If you find this item... replace it working or not. Prone to failure at best, fire hazard at worst.

Get a real breaker such as Bussmann Hi-Amp

pianotuna wrote:
https://www.delcity.net/store/Stud-Mount-Circuit-Breakers/p_167864

looks like this:

Agree it's either this or a fuse. The CB is often called a shortstop and might even still say that on the side of it but it could be an inline fuse as well. Does the same thing. Bestconverter has them I'm sure.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Stud-Mount-Circuit-Breakers/p_167864

looks like this:

Is there a Chassis and/or Coach Battery Disconnect Switch(s)? I know if those are off on my coach, the batteries do not charge from the converter.