How Hot Does Back o Fridge Gat?

Aluminum will work.
I would go about a foot above the top of the stack.

By cabinet, I mean just some baffles like a chimney so air flows. I think it needs to continue above the top too. I can make it without building an entire cabinet.
I have some aluminum.


temp set-up, just making sure it will run on gas before continuing. Wasp clogged the burner tube that had to be cleaned out, or dirt dobbers, whoever bug it is that likes mud.


Eventually I will have the propane parts off the 2004 RV this fridgecame out of.

I can't believe it started up on its own after sitting 13 years and getting wet from the open vent on roof.


dont make fun of the regulator, again temporary. I'm really not sure where I got this reg. It is old and I pretty sure it came off an RV, possibly one I flipped a few yrs ago. Back then I guess they sometimes used a single-stage regulator on RVs.

Yes build a cabinet with venting at the top and bottom. I would search for an installation manual on the manufacturers website. That will tell you the correct clearances necessary.

You could build a shell for the refer. It needs to have air flow up through the coils for it to operate properly, both cooling inside and cooling the coils.
Could use foil lined foam board. Look at the installation manual for your model for clearances.

Thanks.

My plan is to run it as a stand-alone. So, I should just put a back on it so there is a draft? A fan would work, but this is meant for power outages or emergencies, such that some places have been having, so powering a fan might not be a good use of a battery.


I had a used one I ended up selling when I converted to Danfoss, but don't remember it getting this hot. Maybe it was on its last leg, but it did cool to the right temps inside.

Boiler section runs 325*F to 350*F when on electric or gas
Top pipe (water separator) that goes above condenser fin section is roughly 300*F+

Condenser causes the Hot ammonia vapor to cool into a liquid ammonia
When the liquid ammonia mixes with the Hydrogen it sub-cools which then absorbs the heat from freezer first (low temp evap coil) then from food compartment second (high temp evap coil...when the freezer is cold enough to allow heat absorption from food compartment)

Absorber tubes (large slanted tube bundle) should be warm to touch ---also absorber tank but less warm then tubes

Actual temperatures of the various components is a secret cause other then boiler (perk tube) operating temps no actual temps are published for general public


CAUTION:
Removing an absorption fridge and running it w/o being inside a cabinet with proper clearances WILL cause OVERHEATING conditions and damage the cooling unit
They are NOT designed to operate standing alone cause airflow/Draft is not present!
Not surprised yours was HOT!

..

Hot! you aren't going to hang onto it!