The low point water system drains on my 2004 motorhome (R-Vision Trail Lite B+ 235S) have always been difficult to access and very finicky to seal tight. Their condition has now deteriorated to the point that neither will completely seal and my fresh water supply slowly and constantly drips through the drain valves. The drip accelerates to a significant spray when the water pump is turned on.The current project is to replace the two leaking valves (tank drain valve and plumbing system drain valves) and possibly add an in-line water filter to the water tank mechanical space under the rear dinette seat. I would appreciate any guidance from fellow RVers who have experience with similar projects. Close-up images of each valve can be viewed by clicking the links below.The original plumbing system drain appears to be a push-pull 3-way valve that I can't seem to find in any current parts catalog, and the water tank drain appears to be a more common metal angle shutoff valve. Unless advised otherwise, I plan on replacing these original parts with inexpensive valves that are more readily available.Does anyone have ideas, suggestions, or guidance for this project?

Sounds like a good solution, and it appears that you will be able to get to the components a lot eaiser than in some cases. Just be sure to drain the tank before you start. I have the push-pull valves on mine, and they always seem to leak a bit at first. I just rotate the stem a bit, and they seal. Alwo, best to do this stuff when its warm, cold temps and water make it more difficult and the seals or o-rings get hard.

Is the pic taken straight down from above? If that board in the pic is the bottom of the coach, can you get to the bottom side? An effective but inelegant solution is to replace the valves with elbows and add caps outside and below. Or even valves down there. Is the System Drain the low points for both Hot and Cold water? Those are usually separate valves, so replacing the combo/cold/hot drain with separate ones would make them easier to get and in my view easier to use. I don't always appreciate the parts Jayco used on our coach but I do like the 1/4-turn brass valves they installed for water control and low point drains. They use crimp fasteners, though, so you'd need to buy/rent/borrow a crimp ring tool. I'll see if I can find pix of the valves.

I would remove the hose clamps and junk fittings and install sharkbite/gatorbite fittings and valves.

Thanks for all the suggestions. The two-valve photo was taken from above by putting a small camera in macro mode and sticking it into the water supply cubby. Working in there will be a PITA.I assume I will need to replace most of the tiny segments of tubing since I do not have a tool for cleanly removing the crimped connectors.After I disconnect the tubing from the valves, can I expect the valves to simply lift out of the drain tubes with a vice grip? I doubt that they are threaded and can be unscrewed.I found the following valves on the internet. Any experience with these:Flair-it 180 Degree Center Drain Valve 06914 Flair-it Drain Angle Valve 1/2p X 1/2p 06884

My low water hot and cold drain valves are also leaking. They are in an place where I cannot get to them to replace them. I have been using a rubber stopper (a very inelegant solution) to plug the pipes. Recently I put two sharkbite end plugs on them and will leave the valves in the open position. The plugs can be removed with a removal tool to drain the systems.I am a little annoyed with the manufacturer who put the valves where then can not be replaced.

How to replace/re-engineer leaking fresh water drains

Johno02
Explorer
May 07, 2016
Sounds like a good solution, and it appears that you will be able to get to the components a lot eaiser than in some cases. Just be sure to drain the tank before you start. I have the push-pull valves on mine, and they always seem to leak a bit at first. I just rotate the stem a bit, and they seal. Alwo, best to do this stuff when its warm, cold temps and water make it more difficult and the seals or o-rings get hard.
j-d
Explorer II
May 07, 2016
Is the pic taken straight down from above? If that board in the pic is the bottom of the coach, can you get to the bottom side? An effective but inelegant solution is to replace the valves with elbows and add caps outside and below. Or even valves down there.
Is the System Drain the low points for both Hot and Cold water? Those are usually separate valves, so replacing the combo/cold/hot drain with separate ones would make them easier to get and in my view easier to use. I don't always appreciate the parts Jayco used on our coach but I do like the 1/4-turn brass valves they installed for water control and low point drains. They use crimp fasteners, though, so you'd need to buy/rent/borrow a crimp ring tool. I'll see if I can find pix of the valves.
time2roll
Nomad
May 07, 2016
I would remove the hose clamps and junk fittings and install sharkbite/gatorbite fittings and valves.
ImaginaryNumber
Explorer
May 07, 2016
Thanks for all the suggestions. The two-valve photo was taken from above by putting a small camera in macro mode and sticking it into the water supply cubby. Working in there will be a PITA.

I assume I will need to replace most of the tiny segments of tubing since I do not have a tool for cleanly removing the crimped connectors.

After I disconnect the tubing from the valves, can I expect the valves to simply lift out of the drain tubes with a vice grip? I doubt that they are threaded and can be unscrewed.

I found the following valves on the internet. Any experience with these:

Flair-it 180 Degree Center Drain Valve 06914

Flair-it Drain Angle Valve 1/2p X 1/2p 06884
wgriswold
Explorer
May 07, 2016
My low water hot and cold drain valves are also leaking. They are in an place where I cannot get to them to replace them. I have been using a rubber stopper (a very inelegant solution) to plug the pipes. Recently I put two sharkbite end plugs on them and will leave the valves in the open position. The plugs can be removed with a removal tool to drain the systems.

I am a little annoyed with the manufacturer who put the valves where then can not be replaced.
time2roll
Nomad
May 07, 2016
Do the drain pipes just hang out the bottom?
Mine have a valve on the outside.

Consider a T and elbow in the picture and a ball valve below that is hopefully easy to reach.
sonora
Explorer
May 07, 2016
I have used Flair-it fittings a few times and am VERY VERY happy with them. That having been said, I have not had the chance to use their shut off fittings.
j-d
Explorer II
May 07, 2016
If those plastic valves you linked are meant for PEX, you should be OK. Note that they have a special note on the angle drain valve, saying the flow has to be in what looks like the opposite direction from what I think you'd like.

The brass valves in our coach look like Some are straight as shown in the pic, a couple others are 90* angled. They have to be crimped, but they work well after all these years.
wgriswold
Explorer
May 07, 2016
smkettner wrote:
Do the drain pipes just hang out the bottom?
Mine have a valve on the outside.

Consider a T and elbow in the picture and a ball valve below that is hopefully easy to reach.

Yes the drains just hang out the bottom. I considered a valve but was concerned about adding that weight to the pipe and it swaying about with no reinforcement. If I can find a light weight plastic sharkbite like valve I would use it in place of the end caps.

The straight flair it valves referenced above might work.
RJsfishin
Explorer
May 08, 2016
sonora wrote:
I have used Flair-it fittings a few times and am VERY VERY happy with them. That having been said, I have not had the chance to use their shut off fittings.

Flair-it fittings all the way!!! 20 yrs,....never had a leak/failure of any kind.