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Insulating windows

Empty_Nest__Soo
Explorer
Explorer
I have big problems with condensation on windows camping here in the mountains in spring and fall. I’m trying to find a solution.

Is there some way to easily and effectively insulate windows at night, yet remove the insulation layer during the daylight hours for light and, as needed, some ventilation?

I’m thinking of something that could seal well enough around the edges to minimize condensation and prevent a little heat loss, yet be removed and rolled-up or folded during the days.

I’ve put the clear heat-shrink plastic over the windows I don’t need to open, and it works great. But the others can get condensation like crazy. I’m mainly wondering if there is a solution other than dual pane windows for my next RV, although I'd also like to find a good solution for our current TT in the meantime.

Wayne
Wayne & Michelle

1997 Safari Sahara 3540
23 REPLIES 23

Empty_Nest__Soo
Explorer
Explorer
Snowman9000 wrote:
There have been posts here about air to air heat exchangers being used to get the moist air out and fresh air in, without losing much heat in the process. I believe someone in the TC subforum did it a year or two ago.

edit: click here


Thanks! That's really fascinating! I don't read the TC forum - maybe I should. This is good stuff.

Note: The reason for my long delay in responding is that I've been away, and had no real access to a computer.

I hope to go camping really soon. I have 3 uninsulated windows. I may try 3 of these ideas and see what works best.

Thanks everyone!

Wayne
Wayne & Michelle

1997 Safari Sahara 3540

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
There have been posts here about air to air heat exchangers being used to get the moist air out and fresh air in, without losing much heat in the process. I believe someone in the TC subforum did it a year or two ago.

edit: click here
Currently RV-less but not done yet.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Empty Nest, Soon wrote:
2oldman wrote:
Empty Nest, Soon wrote:
I’m mainly wondering if there is a solution other than dual pane windows for my next RV,
Not really, other than stopping the moisture before it starts. Just crack open the wallet and get the dual panes next time. You'll be a much happier camper.


I have no problem at all spending the money on dual pane windows. That would be my preferred solution. The problem is that my truck will only tow a small ultra-light TT and I have been unable to find a floor plan which will work for us in a brand that offers dual pane as an available option.

I know people will suggest a 3/4-ton truck, but I traded off one of those because my old, arthritic back couldn't stand the rough ride anymore. Besides, before I would spend money on a new TT and a new 3/4-ton truck to pull it with, I would buy a Class A with dual pane windows. A floor plan that would work for a retired couple traveling alone is easier to find in a Class A, as are dual pane windows.

Plastic wrap may be worth a try. I will see if it will stick to the window frames well enough to be a practical solution.

Has anyone tried something like this with any luck? http://www.lowes.com/pd_15328-46086-15328_0__?productId=3582748&Ntt=insulation+panels&pl=1¤tURL=%3FN...

I'm tempted to try it cut to size to be a friction fit in the window frames next to the glass, and see how that works. I don't know how good a fit I can get or how durable/long lasting it would be.

Wayne
I've used 1 1/2" extruded polystyrene with good success. We even put a piece of duct tape doubled on itself on one edge of the insulation board to make removal painless.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Dick,

I agree--so I do sometimes use a humidifier. One has to tread a fine line between too much and too little.


dclark1946 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi Wayne,

Temperature where I am at now is 9 F, out door relative humidity is 79%, indoor relative humidity is 15%.


That is an unhealthy humidity .

Dick
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Empty_Nest__Soo
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi Wayne,

You really need to cover the frames too.

Don,

Yes, I'm sure that is true, although I have never noticed the inside flanges sweat. It seems to be the glass mostly, and of course it runs down on the bottom of the metal frame and makes a mess there. Something that would cover all the frame, including the inside flange, would be best.

Wayne
Wayne & Michelle

1997 Safari Sahara 3540

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Wayne,

You really need to cover the frames too.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Empty_Nest__Soo
Explorer
Explorer
dclark1946 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi Wayne,

Temperature where I am at now is 9 F, out door relative humidity is 79%, indoor relative humidity is 15%.


That is an unhealthy humidity .

Dick

Seems desert-dry.

At home, we do well to keep the humidity no higher than 60% in winter. I don't have a gauge in the TT - I just know that there the windows sweat like crazy. Of course, the metal window frames there don't help. At home we have modern vinyl frames & dual pane glass. No condensation problem at home.

Wayne
Wayne & Michelle

1997 Safari Sahara 3540

doxiemom11
Explorer II
Explorer II
We have a small dehumidifier that we use. That wouldn't work though if you have no electric. I also have Damp Rid containers in each closet, in the bed storage area and under the dinette seats in the storage areas. You would be surprised how much moisture they collect. The do not work well in large open spaces though.

dclark1946
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi Wayne,

Temperature where I am at now is 9 F, out door relative humidity is 79%, indoor relative humidity is 15%.


That is an unhealthy humidity .

Dick
Dick & Karen
Richardson,TX
2017 KZ Spree 263RKS
09 F250 V10

Carb_Cleaner
Explorer
Explorer
I used this, in a 2" thick variety because that's what I had laying around.
One side window in our over-cab bed is the emergency escape window, so it doesn't have a storm window (all other windows do). I cut the pink foam board to size and friction fit it behind the valance, pushing the mini-blinds up with it. I didn't have a single piece large enough to cover the entire window, so I pieced it together using a few toothpicks, pushed in at the seam at an angle.
\|
|\
|
|/
/|
Very easy to remove and replace. I'm not sure about the Material Safety Data Sheet on this material, or what type of off-gassing it may have. This was an in promptitude improvement while it was 9 degrees outside, but I used it a few more nights. Warmer and no condensation.
If I had stuck a few more toothpicks in, I coulda had a convenient remote control holder.
'13 F250XL SC gas 4x4 8', Camper & Plow packages, StableLoads, LT285/65R-18 Goodyear Wrangler A/T Adventure, 18x9 Ultra Motorsports "Phantom" wheels
'12 Wolf Creek 850 TC Coleman Polar Cub 9.2k A/C, 90 watt solar, dual propane & batteries, Maggie Rack

Empty_Nest__Soo
Explorer
Explorer
2oldman wrote:
Empty Nest, Soon wrote:
I’m mainly wondering if there is a solution other than dual pane windows for my next RV,
Not really, other than stopping the moisture before it starts. Just crack open the wallet and get the dual panes next time. You'll be a much happier camper.


I have no problem at all spending the money on dual pane windows. That would be my preferred solution. The problem is that my truck will only tow a small ultra-light TT and I have been unable to find a floor plan which will work for us in a brand that offers dual pane as an available option.

I know people will suggest a 3/4-ton truck, but I traded off one of those because my old, arthritic back couldn't stand the rough ride anymore. Besides, before I would spend money on a new TT and a new 3/4-ton truck to pull it with, I would buy a Class A with dual pane windows. A floor plan that would work for a retired couple traveling alone is easier to find in a Class A, as are dual pane windows.

Plastic wrap may be worth a try. I will see if it will stick to the window frames well enough to be a practical solution.

Has anyone tried something like this with any luck? http://www.lowes.com/pd_15328-46086-15328_0__?productId=3582748&Ntt=insulation+panels&pl=1&currentUR...

I'm tempted to try it cut to size to be a friction fit in the window frames next to the glass, and see how that works. I don't know how good a fit I can get or how durable/long lasting it would be.

Wayne
Wayne & Michelle

1997 Safari Sahara 3540

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Empty Nest, Soon wrote:
I’m mainly wondering if there is a solution other than dual pane windows for my next RV,
Not really, other than stopping the moisture before it starts. Just crack open the wallet and get the dual panes next time. You'll be a much happier camper.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

JiminDenver
Explorer
Explorer
Try Glad press and seal wrap. A nice tight seal with little effort and it comes off the next day as easy without a residue. Bigger windows take multiple sheets connected at the edges and then stuck to the frame.
2011 GulfStream Amerilite 25BH
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w tilting portable/ TS-MPPT-45
750w solar , TS-MPPT-60 on the trailer
675 Ah bank, Trip-lite 1250fc inverter
Sportsman 2200w inverter generator

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Wayne,

Temperature where I am at now is 9 F, out door relative humidity is 79%, indoor relative humidity is 15%.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.