kwikee step

When you test the ignition override, make sure the door is closed. If the door is open, the steps will not retract. However, with the door open and the ignition on, closing the door is supposed to retract the steps.

One thing you might check - is the ignition sense wire connected to the ignition?

bcbigfoot wrote:
I removed the controller 4 years ago and replaced it with a simple switch and a light on the dash connected to a limit switch to warn me that the steps are out so I don't take off with them extended. I used a Cole Hersee DPDT Reversing polarity Toggle Switch, they run around $10 and most auto stores can order them in. Here is a link http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/52/55046/

I suspect my controller was defective when new but since I didn't know it was suppose to retract the steps with the ignition on, I didn't file a warranty claim.

Have gone through the Kwikee test procedure and think I have confirmed the controller works except for the Ignition swicth override feature.

At $110 + for a controller I am not sure if the Ignition feature is worth the $ as otherwise the controller works as it is suppose to.

Clay L wrote:

Hank MI wrote:

Clay L wrote:
Unless you can tell exactly when the steps have reached their full in or out extension you will draw a lot of current when they reach the stops. I suppose you could rig a couple of micro switches at the stops to interrupt the current. A diode in series with each micro switch would also be needed so that the opened switch would not be bypassed by the closed one.

i have read posts by other people that have done what you are talking about and they didn't mention using micro switches and diodes so maybe that isn't a problem.

If it's like ours the motor has a thermal switch inside of it, that's what cuts power to the motor when it hits the limit. The controller senses the lack of current flow and shuts the power off. Now leaving the switch on for an extended period could cause a problem, the thermal switch will cool, the motor will try to turn and the thermal switch will open again. This cycle will continue until the power is switched off.

A DPDT momentary switch would be best. Let go when the steps reach their limit, you can't leave the switch in an on position.

All of the Kwikee steps that I have seen manuals for use a current sense circuit in the control board to sense the current rise when the motor stalls and use that to cut the current to the motor.

You may be right, I assumed it sensed the lack of current flow not an increase. The motor is just an older style auto window motor and I know for a fact it has a thermal switch inside it. When my step was not working I could here the switch cut out then back in a few seconds later when it cooled. I also took the motor and gear box apart so I know there is a thermal switch in the motor.

Hank MI wrote:

Clay L wrote:
Unless you can tell exactly when the steps have reached their full in or out extension you will draw a lot of current when they reach the stops. I suppose you could rig a couple of micro switches at the stops to interrupt the current. A diode in series with each micro switch would also be needed so that the opened switch would not be bypassed by the closed one.

i have read posts by other people that have done what you are talking about and they didn't mention using micro switches and diodes so maybe that isn't a problem.

If it's like ours the motor has a thermal switch inside of it, that's what cuts power to the motor when it hits the limit. The controller senses the lack of current flow and shuts the power off. Now leaving the switch on for an extended period could cause a problem, the thermal switch will cool, the motor will try to turn and the thermal switch will open again. This cycle will continue until the power is switched off.

A DPDT momentary switch would be best. Let go when the steps reach their limit, you can't leave the switch in an on position.

All of the Kwikee steps that I have seen manuals for use a current sense circuit in the control board to sense the current rise when the motor stalls and use that to cut the current to the motor.

Clay L wrote:
Unless you can tell exactly when the steps have reached their full in or out extension you will draw a lot of current when they reach the stops. I suppose you could rig a couple of micro switches at the stops to interrupt the current. A diode in series with each micro switch would also be needed so that the opened switch would not be bypassed by the closed one.

i have read posts by other people that have done what you are talking about and they didn't mention using micro switches and diodes so maybe that isn't a problem.

If it's like ours the motor has a thermal switch inside of it, that's what cuts power to the motor when it hits the limit. The controller senses the lack of current flow and shuts the power off. Now leaving the switch on for an extended period could cause a problem, the thermal switch will cool, the motor will try to turn and the thermal switch will open again. This cycle will continue until the power is switched off.

A DPDT momentary switch would be best. Let go when the steps reach their limit, you can't leave the switch in an on position.

Joe have you already determined that your controller was bad by going through the steps on the Quikee web site?

I removed the controller 4 years ago and replaced it with a simple switch and a light on the dash connected to a limit switch to warn me that the steps are out so I don't take off with them extended. I used a Cole Hersee DPDT Reversing polarity Toggle Switch, they run around $10 and most auto stores can order them in. Here is a link http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/52/55046/

The one you need is 3/8' round magnetic door switch. PN 905307000 at Tweetys
PH 800-358-5894 www.tweetys.com

The one you need is 3/8' round magnetic door switch. PN 905307000 at Tweetys
PH 800-358-5894 www.tweetys.com

I think i will try replacing the door swith and magnet.The only problem i dont know if i need to replace it with a normally open or closed.I recently had the controller and motor replaced and not sure what type of switch is their now.It is one of those black round type swiches but i understand there are two different kinds.Normally open and normally closed.How can i tell what kind to go with?