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Layout of Components for Solar Install

alliemac9
Explorer
Explorer
I'd like some input on my conceptual plan for my solar install, in particular the best location for the various components.

For reference, here is my floor plan:





This photo is looking in the entry door at the battery box under the step. The cabinetry to the left of the battery box houses the fridge (above) and the furnace (below), with a shallow storage cabinet facing the steps, just above the photo edge. The couch is to the right. Most of the area beneath the couch is a metal box for our primary exterior storage bay. However, there is storage along the front and both sides of the couch. Currently, our inverter is mounted just inside the end of the couch shown on the right.

Panels - Four 158W panels mounted in parallel. Wiring drop through fridge vent should drop wires straight down to left of battery box.

TriMetric - Mount somewhere on cabinet to left of battery box. This is also where the RV control panel is, so this seems like the best spot. Just need to decide whether to mount it up high or down low.

Shunt - This should go in with the batteries, right? Like in the small compartment to the left where the wiring connections are already managed?

Tristar 60 Amp PWM Controller - This is my main question... I know this should be as close to the batteries as possible, so I have two options. Option 1 would be to mount it on the inside of the end of the couch where the inverter is. This would be rather tight to access for wiring (since I cannot move the big metal box that is the exterior storage). However, this would be an interior location if that is relevant. Option 2 (what I was hoping to do) would be to mount it in the external storage compartment that is under the couch (see photo below).



This is the exterior storage bay (the end of which is about 23" H x 23" W and there is currently about 6" between the wall of the bay and the first storage boxes). I envision mounting the charge controller and related stuff on this end wall which is just under the couch and therefore adjacent to the battery box.

Batteries - Will stick with current set until they die. Then likely upgrade to 2 Trojan 27TMH 12V batteries (my battery compartment is not tall enough for 6V batteries).

Inverter - Will stick with current 400W inverter for now until/unless we find we have need for something else. This is already wired with an on/off switch and mounted under the couch and would anticipate it will stay there.

Any thoughts?
2007 Coachmen Freelander 2430DB + 2 dogs
18 REPLIES 18

Lexicon7
Explorer
Explorer
Hi Guys, for another great source of help and at one of the best places to purchase components: there is a forum at "Northern Arizona Wind & Sun" site ::: solar-electric.com

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
alliemac9 wrote:
Does anyone know if there are any restrictions as to the orientation of a TriStar CC? (Sorry - I know - read the manual...just haven't gotten to that point yet.) Can it lay flat on its back if needed?
No. The cooling fins must be upright.
The manual is fairly specific on mounting clearances.

alliemac9
Explorer
Explorer
Since pictures are worth a thousand words and all....here's an image to give the rest of the view of the cabinet and appurtenances.



Vent panel in question at left, fridge/furnace on face, WFCO converter to right of furnace beneath the bed.
2007 Coachmen Freelander 2430DB + 2 dogs

AlbertaNewbie
Explorer
Explorer
alliemac9 wrote:
@Alberta - so you don't think being in the same cabinet as the furnace would be a problem for the CC? I was contemplating something similar - creating a "backboard" out of plywood to mount things on for easier visibility/access.

While there's probably room in the existing shallow cabinet, we do utilize it regularly so I'd be inclined to replace the veneer around the vent with a cabinet door and install components there. I'd then probably put the TriMetric next to the panel between the existing cabinet and the new lower cabinet. So, the only thing in this new cabinet would be the CC, correct? And associating wiring junction boxes or something?

Does anyone know if there are any restrictions as to the orientation of a TriStar CC? (Sorry - I know - read the manual...just haven't gotten to that point yet.) Can it lay flat on its back if needed?


No issues with placing in same cab as furnace. The tristar should be mounted vertically to ensure cooling, particularily when nearing 50% or more of the rated amperage. Having jb's and other wiring in there should not be a problem either.
2014 Dutchmen 261bhs - 7200#'s loaded
2012 Ram 1500 SXT Crew Cab w/5.7L HEMI, 4x4 3.55 Gears
250w Conergy 250P 24v solar with tristar 45amp mppt charge controller

alliemac9
Explorer
Explorer
@Alberta - so you don't think being in the same cabinet as the furnace would be a problem for the CC? I was contemplating something similar - creating a "backboard" out of plywood to mount things on for easier visibility/access.

While there's probably room in the existing shallow cabinet, we do utilize it regularly so I'd be inclined to replace the veneer around the vent with a cabinet door and install components there. I'd then probably put the TriMetric next to the panel between the existing cabinet and the new lower cabinet. So, the only thing in this new cabinet would be the CC, correct? And associating wiring junction boxes or something?

Does anyone know if there are any restrictions as to the orientation of a TriStar CC? (Sorry - I know - read the manual...just haven't gotten to that point yet.) Can it lay flat on its back if needed?
2007 Coachmen Freelander 2430DB + 2 dogs

AlbertaNewbie
Explorer
Explorer
I wouldn't hesitate to utilize either the cabinet or the empty space below. As noted a couple of small louvers for passive air flow would be sufficient for the CC. I would even go as far as mounting a piece of 3/4" ply in the empty spacee below for the CC. If I had that setup in my trailer I'd be in heaven.
2014 Dutchmen 261bhs - 7200#'s loaded
2012 Ram 1500 SXT Crew Cab w/5.7L HEMI, 4x4 3.55 Gears
250w Conergy 250P 24v solar with tristar 45amp mppt charge controller

alliemac9
Explorer
Explorer
Okay, I disassembled the vent this morning... here's a photo:



Looking in through the vent hole. The wood at the bottom is covering the wheel well. There is a wire comb running along the left side in the dark area, the furnace at back, and the rest is empty except the vent hose.

Given the TriStar controller needs air - is it really okay to install it in the same cabinet with the furnace?

Here's a pano I shot of the entire cabinet that we're discussing (please excuse the distortion - panning in a straight line for this was difficult).



The black panel at top is the RV control panel, the cabinet door in the middle is a shallow cabinet, behind which is the fridge, the panel at the lower third has the entry lights and battery disconnect. Additionally, the cabinetry you see above the entry door used to house the factory DVD player - that's been removed, so that is an empty cabinet waiting for a good idea to fill it. I'm not sure this is the right use, but thought I'd mention it in case someone has a thought.
2007 Coachmen Freelander 2430DB + 2 dogs

alliemac9
Explorer
Explorer
Interesting idea - are you all suggesting that I find a cabinet door to cover that lower area so I can remove the veneer panel, install the controller there, then have access via a door?

Would need to move that air intake in that case (unless I wanted foil tube to open/close with the door), but it might fit in the thicker wood above the veneer panel. Time to go unscrew the vent and feel around in there to see how much space there really is...
2007 Coachmen Freelander 2430DB + 2 dogs

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
You want MPPT (maximum power point tracking) controller for 24+ volt panels.
PWM (pulse width modulation) for 12v panels.

I have 3x 24v panels in series. 90v to controller.

MikeJinCO
Explorer
Explorer
Check that. As I said I'm not full study yet. For higher voltage panels use PMMT controller I believe?? I'm old and getting confused these days.

MikeJinCO
Explorer
Explorer
I look at this a little differently and have not studied the solar completely yet as I'm still figuring out my basic power setup. But, as I understand it if you are getting identical panels then their output voltage will all be the same so buy the higher voltage panels of 30 volts(24v system panels), let the PWM controller bring it down to our charge rate of 13.8/14.4 etc. It will cut the cost of the panels almost in half and allow use of a smaller amperage controller and wire size due to lower amperage(I think they are based on input amperage-this needs to be verified) cutting cost further. "They say" you will also gain a couple of points of efficiency with the PWM.

I don't know enough about MH's to comment on location, but if you're concerned about the distances make sure to be generous on wire size. We have had 220 watts solar and a 400 watt Samlex for 4 years on our truck camper with no problems. I don't know if you can run enough stuff off 400 watts to really draw the system down. At least we can't. This time around very few to no hook ups, basically full timing and want to run microwave and coffee pot with a portable genny only for emergencies so things inverters(2kw) and wires(2/0) get really big quickly. Also just remember that with panels not pointed directly at the sun that the efficiency is lower, I've never seen more than about 11 amp output(in October with a low sun angle) or about 50% of the panel rated output which is not to say that other folks don't do better.

I'm near Salida if I can be of any assistance pm me.

mena661
Explorer
Explorer

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
+1 for mounting in a utility cabinet vs. the storage bin.

I would not worry about cooling vents unless you manage to actually get the controller hot. Then just add a 12v computer fan if needed.

AlbertaNewbie
Explorer
Explorer
It looks like all you have below the fridge is an empty box with a furnace vent in it that could easily be moved. That would be ideal with a few lovered vents for the cc, put the trimetric in the existing hole of the furnace vent and move the vent forward. Eliminates a whole bunch of wiring and doesnt utikize space that is already taken up and needs to be accesed often.
2014 Dutchmen 261bhs - 7200#'s loaded
2012 Ram 1500 SXT Crew Cab w/5.7L HEMI, 4x4 3.55 Gears
250w Conergy 250P 24v solar with tristar 45amp mppt charge controller