Looks like I need a new main board for Norcold N621

[Wolfe]

I was wondering if anyone tests these board before I buy one.
It would be a nice service seeing that you can't return electrical parts.
Anyway, the refridge was working fine, it now has no display at all, I did all the troubleshooting and all voltages are there so it looks like I will be getting a Dinosaur board.

[dougrainer]

Rettrooper wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

Rettrooper wrote:

vic46 wrote:
http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/

X2

I had the same Norcold N621, just not the same problem as you. I did the swap with the dinosaur board, it has run like brand new. Don't look back or play with the OEM board. You'll be very happy with the dino board.

BTW the swap out of the board is very easy to do, requiring no special tools or techniques!

What difference would the Dino board make on operation???????? Doug

Doug

The Dino board swap eliminates the problems that the OEM board produced. In my case, my display would read: "FA" and then shut down and not run on gas at all. It would however continue to run on electricity with either the genset or shore power. Once I replaced the OEM board with the Dino board, it has been flawless, both on gas and electric. Dino board was replaced 6 years ago.

Well worth this minor investment.

MY point being, if you had replaced with a Norcold your problem would have been fixed also. Doug

[Rettrooper]

dougrainer wrote:

Rettrooper wrote:

vic46 wrote:
http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/

X2

I had the same Norcold N621, just not the same problem as you. I did the swap with the dinosaur board, it has run like brand new. Don't look back or play with the OEM board. You'll be very happy with the dino board.

BTW the swap out of the board is very easy to do, requiring no special tools or techniques!

What difference would the Dino board make on operation???????? Doug

Doug

The Dino board swap eliminates the problems that the OEM board produced. In my case, my display would read: "FA" and then shut down and not run on gas at all. It would however continue to run on electricity with either the genset or shore power. Once I replaced the OEM board with the Dino board, it has been flawless, both on gas and electric. Dino board was replaced 6 years ago.

Well worth this minor investment.

[wa8yxm]

BB this is a common issue,, There are at least 4 causes of that...

1: There is a virus among us that likes to live in current rich places like the electrical connectors you describe, This first came to light in the early days of Home Computing when most of the boards were heavily socketed. Simply re-seating cards and chips fixed many a computer.

2: Vibration

3: Mositure getting to the connector and causing tarnish. (Corrosion).

4: Actually it's OXYGEN from the air that does the damage in 3. No moisture needed, water just accelerates the process.


I will tell you how to fix a switch (And I will tell you if this works,, You might want to buy a lotto ticket,, I've had it work twice so far). (Still have not won lotto though).

Remove power from the switch, (Drop the load off, pull the fuse, or simply disconnect the switch from everything)

Cycle it like 50 times (more, less, exact number not important)

Return power/load/to circuit and see if it works.

Most switches are "Self Cleaning" which means the contacts rub against one another to rub off tarnish, but sometimes.. The tarnish is too much, When this happens they arc and "Dirty" themselves as fast as they clean.. So removing power, stops the arc, then the normal wiping action cleans the switch.

Like I said, had it work 2x times so far, ONe was my USE/STORE (Battery disconnect) switch, It "Stored" (disconnected) Just fine.. but alas "USE" did not work.

[billyboy]

I just tried to turn my fridge on and it had no display. I took the cover off the outside wall and removed the 4 screws holding the cover on the board. I then removed the small plug at the top of the board ,and plugged it back in, which feeds voltage to the display inside , and guess what.... I was back in business.

[dougrainer]

Rettrooper wrote:

vic46 wrote:
http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/

X2

I had the same Norcold N621, just not the same problem as you. I did the swap with the dinosaur board, it has run like brand new. Don't look back or play with the OEM board. You'll be very happy with the dino board.

BTW the swap out of the board is very easy to do, requiring no special tools or techniques!

What difference would the Dino board make on operation???????? Doug

[Rettrooper]

vic46 wrote:
http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/

X2

I had the same Norcold N621, just not the same problem as you. I did the swap with the dinosaur board, it has run like brand new. Don't look back or play with the OEM board. You'll be very happy with the dino board.

BTW the swap out of the board is very easy to do, requiring no special tools or techniques!

[vic46]

http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/

[Chris_Bryant]

You can try looking at http://bryantrv.com/docs.html and scroll down to both the N series manual and the Norcold Power and Display board troubleshooting manual, which gives a lot of tests to perform.

[wa8yxm]

You may find the parts counter at Camping World is able to test them but CALL AHEAD.. They likely can get you an OEM board.

IF the board is bad.. May I recommend you check with Dinosaur boards to see if they have a high quality replacement (Any replacement they have will be of the highest quality, they don't sell junk) Usually they are cheaper since they do not have to pay for an ocean liner to transport them.

[btd35]

I've been an appliance tech for 20 years.
Not sure I followed this correctly, but you say the fridge is working fine, except the display is blank?
I would guess then that there is fine voltage to the board, and it IS on but no output to the display.
No display but working fine, yes 95% chance it is the board. Reset your connections to the board and power it up again. Test the board itself? Not likely. Most places will return it if that isn't the problem, but you will have to pay a restocking and testing fee. Have had little to no luck with local places anywhere testing equipment for function. They don't have the full hookup needed to do it right.

[BFL13]

The manual says no display means no voltage or the fridge is off. Not sure how that indicates a new board is needed. Perhaps your voltage checks missed a spot?

Maybe one of our forum's RV techs will help. ISTR reading there is a fuse on the board? If so what blew it? etc.

There is a reset procedure (use the Search--lots of threads about that) involving jumpering some pins but this procedure may not apply in this case, don't know. I think you would need voltage to make that work.