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RDMueller's avatar
RDMueller
Explorer
Aug 14, 2016

Need help troubleshooting my Dometic 2652 fridge

A few weeks ago we were preparing for a trip when I noticed the fridge wasn't cooling at all. The RV was connected to 120VAC and the fridge was set to auto. The first thing I did was switch to LPG and listen for the igniter clicking. It lit immediately and within a few hours it was cooling nicely. Big sigh of relief - at least I know it's not the cooling unit!

On to troubleshooting, here's what I checked:
- confirmed 120VAC at the outlet that the fridge is plugged into
- checked all fuses on the board
- checked for a rise in amps on the Progressive EMS when switching over to electric and found no rise.

At that point I felt I had narrowed it down to a faulty electric heating element and decided to go ahead with the trip using only LPG. Worked perfectly on gas the whole time we were gone.

Now that we are home, I decided I just need to confirm the heating element is bad before I order a new one. Pulled the 2 leads off the board and connect to my DMM expecting it to test as open. Instead I get 45 ohms - almost exactly what it is supposed to be! So I hook everything back up and try running it on electric again, see a 3 amp rise on the Progressive and within 5 minutes feel noticeable heat on the chimney/top of the element.

Great, I have an intermittent problem, the absolute hardest kind of problem to troubleshoot!

Soooo, my question is this. Do you think it's possible to have a heating element that only fails intermittently? I read that these heating elements are actually a high failure item, but it seems to me that once it fails - that's it. Not going to start working again.

The only other possibility I can see is a bad board. Maybe the board has a relay that can stick? Could just go with the shotgun method and replace both, but... The board, although easy to change is pricy. The heating element is cheap, but more work to replace (from what I can tell I'll need to pull the fridge out to gain enough access to replace the element).

Sure, I could just say, it's working now, not going to worry about it. But I know if I do that, just a matter of time till I get up one morning to a fridge full of spoiled food :(

Anyone else seen an intermittent failure like this? Thank you in advance for any ideas/advice!
  • I might also consider just replacing the board for peace of mind. People on Amazon seem to be very happy with this aftermarket replacement made by Dinosaur.

    Dinosaur Electronics (MICRO P-711)

    Not totally sure yet what I'm going to do. Next chance I get, I'll remove the board for a close examination and let you all know what I find.
  • You can pick up the relays quite cheap also, so would be extra assurance just to replace.

    Not on a frig, but I have seen that type of spade lug on a circuit board crack the solder joint around it.
  • darsben1 wrote:
    The heating element failing intermittently would not be on my list of possibilities until the very last


    Me too. Might also be a cold solder joint on the board.
  • Ok, good. That's kind of what I was thinking too - heating element not going to fail intermittently. Next I'm going to take a very close look at the control board. At least that will be very easy to replace if it comes to it.
  • The heating element failing intermittently would not be on my list of possibilities until the very last
  • Heating element work or don't.........

    Wiring/contacts/connections/grounds etc can cause intermittent operation

    Could have been connection for leads
    Could have been the 5A fuse contacts

    J7 is neutral line to element
    J8 is hot lie to element (switched)
    Issue could be with printed circuits to those terminals
  • Mandalay Parr wrote:
    Maybe the two leads you pulled wern't making a good connection and now they are.

    I thought about that too, but they were on there very securely and the connections were clean with no corrosion. I really think by the process of elimination that either the heating element itself has an intermittent failure or the control board has a sticking relay.

    I think that since it is easy to remove, my next step will be to remove the board and examine it very closely on the bench.

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