Dometic Fridge

As the harmonious fish (PianoTuna) said, you need both 12 and 120 volt, (12 runs the devices computer controller) if you plug JUST the fridge in batteries will provide 12 volt for a time,,,

If the problem is with the 120 volt stuff in the coach and the converter is still plugged in and working.. GO FOR IT.

wkc5053 check on You Tube there may be a video for your model. AsI recall when I did mine (new cooling unit) It's just unplug the 110 plug and the 12 volt pos. and neg wires. I was doing it by myself so I took the doors off to make it lighter and easier to handle. Just laid it on he floor of the MH and did the replacement.

Thanks guys for the replies. I have since installed a new circuit board on my convertor and now my fridge works, as well the a/c unit doesn't kick out anymore. Thanks

Attempting to install a cooling unit in a Dometic 2852 RV refrigerator. Need recommendations for removing the refrigerator to avoid damaging wires etc. Thanks in advance.

cooper3197 wrote:
Can I plug my Dometic Fridge directly into an outside outlet that is not connected in any way to the camper or is there a reason that I would have to run it through the camper outlet. Thanks.

This is completely acceptable and in fact a well known full-timer's trick.

Hi,

The fridge only draws about 325 watts. The fridge must have 12 volt dc power to operate the control board.

You may be better off moving the water heater or the converter to a separate auxiliary shore power cord (or even do both as I did).

Pretty sure 12V runs controls. Not sure but think you need a 12V source. We will find out more than you could ever want to know in the next few post. :)

AC power is AC power. But remember the fridge runs off 110v only for the heating element, the control board still needs 12v power. That is why most people just plug in the whole camper to keep the 12v system charged as well.

You can plug an RV into a standard 15A outlet, just don't try to run the AC that way. But you can get away with the fridge running, using lights and even a small vacuum. Anything more then that and the breaker will pop.

Pretty sure the outlet in the refrigerator compartment is regular 110. Go for it. Not sure why you would want to though unless the fridge is out of the RV for some reason.