New Dometic A/C Not Working... Oil Everywhere

[SpencerRB]

I just installed a Dometic Brisk 2 A/C on my toy hauler 3 weeks ago after having an incident with a tree branch with our original Dometic A/C.

The unit has worked great over the last few weeks until I noticed yesterday that the trailer was abnormally warm with the A/C on. Quickly realized that the air flowing out of the vents was no colder than the ambient temperature inside the trailer.

Popped the shroud, and quickly noticed there was oily residue on the A/C tray, as well as on the fan blades, and the inside of the shroud cover. I can't seem to find the source of the oil, but upon researching this, it sounds like this oil most likely the refrigerant oil that is left behind after a refrigerant leak.

Upon running the unit, the compressor seems to start (draws about 10amps), and becomes quite warm, but the coils don't heat up, and the air blown through the condenser has no heat in it.

This seems to line up with a refrigerant leak? Any other thoughts?

[wa8yxm]

Either there was a workmanship fault during construction or you nicked one of the lines but you have a rupture.. Depending on the location of same a professional may be able to re-seal and re-charge but as it's new I'd return for exchange

And be very very very careful with the new install.

[SpencerRB]

Thanks guys.

I have a dometic mobile service tech coming out this afternoon to do the warranty replacement.

Nothing like having a brand new a/c fail 1 month in!

[Bob_Landry]

old guy wrote:
get it replaced, the compress just took a dump

This has nothing to do with a compressor failure Oil in the pan indicates a leak or break in the refrigerant line. I would have a tech check it and try to verify the cause of the leak. If it is deemed to be a factory defect such as copper lines rubbing against each other, bad solder connection, etc., I would want it replaced under warranty, as there is no way to tell how much oil it lost. Usually you can make a pretty good call by looking at it. If it was caused during installation or by some other outside cause, it's your call whether you want to fix it or replace it. If you choose to repair it, it's a simple matter to braze a survive port in the suction line and weigh a charge. It will need to be done by a tech with the proper equipment. Your average shade tree AC guy is not going to know how to charge it. Unlike R-22, this has to be either weighed or charged by super-heat. There are too many variables that effect pressures with R-410A and the gauge readings are going to be very erratic.

[old_guy]

get it replaced, the compress just took a dump

[shooted]

Refrigerant leak

[mlts22]

Is the new Brisk A/C under warranty? Most likely, it will have to go back due to a dud compressor.