brows827 wrote:
Wow - you guys are awesome, and fast.
Here are some of the answers:
- re: electric water heater on - what is odd is that when I was sanitizing the fresh water tank and running some water through the sink, there was hot water. But the switch for the heater is set to off.
The water can remain warm for some time.- re: battery disconnected and refrigerator on. The refrigerator was off for most of the time when I've been dealing w/ this issue. If I set it to on but use gas, will that still be drawing electricity?
No AC but all most refers use 12V controls for propane and AC.- re: power converter online: I tried switching the circuit breaker for the converter to off, but that shut off a bunch of stuff. How should I handle shutting it off?
Why do you want to shut if off? It should draw little amps with charged batteries and if not charged that should be the priority not the A/C. But with no switch you'll have to disconnect the wiring.- re: was it checked out before purchased? Yes, the seller took it to an RV dealer of my choosing for an inspection, but I wasn't there for it - supposedly they did a complete test...though I noticed a small, slow leak in the freshwater tank last night around the gauge wire, so not sure how thorough it was.
Not doing your own and complete PDI means you have no idea what was/was not checked. Rarely do dealers PDIs involve complete checks regardless of what they say.- re: generator size: it's a Predator inverter with 3500W starting, 3000W running. It has a 30A outlet with a 30A twist lock adapter that I used w/ my 30 amp cord to the trailer. The generator says it shouldn't exceed 25 amps, but it will run for a bit when it has more - but it gets super hot
One A/C and charger should be OK and you need to find out what is causing the 25A+ draw.
Thanks everyone -
