Norcold 611(?) no spark

I would guess
Yes
The red circled area is indeed the problem
Looks as if the fuse in the lower left did not blow?
Do you know how to check the surrounding transistors / semiconductors / capacitors and other components?
Most folks would suggest you purchase a new board
Me I would repair the board and move on

Replace the defective components rather that purchase a new high $$ board
To each their own
Something caused those components to fry

Voltage looks good at the board and at the gas valve. Good continuity on the igniter wire and no cracks in the insulator. Distance between the tip of the igniter and the burner is within specs. Still no spark though.

I'm thinking this could be the problem. Looks toasty to me.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
No spark.....
Spark gap incorrect......should be 1/8"-3/16" between tip and burner
IF spark gap is correct and no spark

Will check that tomorrow when I've got the right tools along so I can get to it.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Check continuity between unplugged end and sensor. No continuity replace.

Continuity was good on the wire. Didn't have the right tools to remove the drip cup so I wasn't able to pull the igniter and check for a cracked ceramic casing.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Does fridge work on AC....cools good?

Yes, it works fine on AC

Old-Biscuit wrote:
And if the DC fuse in DC Dist. Panel was blown you would not be able to operate fridge at all.......NO lights on panel.

The red indicator LED in the dist panel that indicates a bad fuse was on but so were the LED's on the fridge when I switched it from off to gas. The fuse itself didn't have what I'd call a clean burn through, but it was definitely in need of replacement so maybe just a partial melt and enough juice getting through to light the LED's on the fridge.

Thanks for all the info. I'm leaning toward something on the board or the igniter and won't waste my time on an unnecessary reset.

No spark.....
Spark gap incorrect......should be 1/8"-3/16" between tip and burner
IF spark gap is correct and no spark.......check continuity between unplugged end and sensor. No continuity replace.
If spark is correct and continuity test good.......then control board.
Check for 12V DC voltage at gas valve connections on board GV & GV-GND. Have to test for voltage when fridge is trying to initiate spark and open main gas valve.

I suspect bad spark electrode because you must have correct voltage at gas valve otherwise it wouldn't have lit via BBQ lighter



Does fridge work on AC....cools good?


You would only need to do the 'reset' if you had a 'no co' fault code.
On yours that would be the ON LED light flashing 5 times every 3 seconds (N611)

Just so you know......your fridge needs 12V DC power whether it is on shore power or not. And it needs it to operate on electric or gas setting. The 12V DC operates the control boards.
There is a DC fuse on the power board but if it was blown you would not have been able to light gas flame with a BBQ (DC opens/holds open gas valve)

And if the DC fuse in DC Dist. Panel was blown you would not be able to operate fridge at all.......NO lights on panel.