Norcold Fridge Issue - Help!

[Donebee]

Norcold 982 fridge issue. Fridge was running on AC, plugged in at home. Checked and found it was running on propane, C6 error. Replaced AC Heater and turned back on, set to auto. Seemed to run fine but after checking several hours later, find that it is again running on propane and displaying C6 error.

Checked internal control information, all appears within specs, except for AC Heater, which shows 1.5 amps, not 2.7 - 2.9 as listed in specs.

Did I get a bad new part?

[dougrainer]

I am not being rude. I am trying to get to your issue. It would have helped if you had stated from the beginning you are using a NON Norcold Part to control the refer. I stated what Norcold told me about the error code. You want help, but your problem is you are NOT using a Norcold Control part. You have a very unusual problem. I have worked on and still work on RV's and Norcolds for 40 years. If you don't want my help so be it. Go talk to Dino, That is your only recourse now. I will move on. Doug

[Donebee]

dougrainer wrote:

Donebee wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
If on AUTO and it started on 120 and tnen errored out and switched to LP, That means the Circuit board did not SEE 120 volts input. OR faulty 120 input
1. Norcold elements rarely fail. You did buy a Norcold Heat Element?
2. Circuit boards rarely fail(you stated it was replaced last year). So, odds are this board is good.
3. Are you POSITIVE you have GOOD 120 volts to the RV?
4. In 40 years as a RV tech, I have never see a Heat Element work for a while and then fail.
5. Plugged into your home. That sometimes means your Home outlet may be the problem. Possible reverse polarity or heavy load by the RV. Is the unit plugged into a regular wall receptacle or do you have a dedicated 30 or 50 amp outlet? Doug

WHY are you fixated on the 120 element? Below is the diag explanation for C6. Says nothing about the 120 element or operation on 120

C6 Fault within refrigerator controls Not owner serviceable; Consult your dealer or a Norcold Service Center
Per Norcold, they have not had the rear control boards in a few years. WHERE did you get your replacement board? Norcold states it must be a Rear control board fault. So, you either have to get someone to repair it(Dinosaur) Or get a Dinosaur replacement board.

1. Yes, purchased Norcold element.
2. Yes, I believe the board is good.
3. Yes, positive.
5. Home outlet is not the problem and no heavy load by RV.

Circuit board was replaced last year (Dinosaur Electronics), who also advised C6 was an AC Heater related issue.

1. Norcold does not state C6 is a Heater issue
2. When you go to an aftermarket part, you cannot rely on the onboard troubleshooting. Dino does not show a Circuit board for your model on their website.
3. Did you replace the Board due to this same issue?

1. I never said Norcold told me that. I said the tech at Dino did when I called regarding the C6 error. He advised to replace the AC Heater based on what I had advised.
2. Check part N991 on the Dino site.
3. No, totally different issue last year.

Lastly, I came here for assistance, not to argue or receive rude remarks. Please go help someone else!

[dougrainer]

Donebee wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
If on AUTO and it started on 120 and tnen errored out and switched to LP, That means the Circuit board did not SEE 120 volts input. OR faulty 120 input
1. Norcold elements rarely fail. You did buy a Norcold Heat Element?
2. Circuit boards rarely fail(you stated it was replaced last year). So, odds are this board is good.
3. Are you POSITIVE you have GOOD 120 volts to the RV?
4. In 40 years as a RV tech, I have never see a Heat Element work for a while and then fail.
5. Plugged into your home. That sometimes means your Home outlet may be the problem. Possible reverse polarity or heavy load by the RV. Is the unit plugged into a regular wall receptacle or do you have a dedicated 30 or 50 amp outlet? Doug

WHY are you fixated on the 120 element? Below is the diag explanation for C6. Says nothing about the 120 element or operation on 120

C6 Fault within refrigerator controls Not owner serviceable; Consult your dealer or a Norcold Service Center
Per Norcold, they have not had the rear control boards in a few years. WHERE did you get your replacement board? Norcold states it must be a Rear control board fault. So, you either have to get someone to repair it(Dinosaur) Or get a Dinosaur replacement board.

1. Yes, purchased Norcold element.
2. Yes, I believe the board is good.
3. Yes, positive.
5. Home outlet is not the problem and no heavy load by RV.

Circuit board was replaced last year (Dinosaur Electronics), who also advised C6 was an AC Heater related issue.

1. Norcold does not state C6 is a Heater issue
2. When you go to an aftermarket part, you cannot rely on the onboard troubleshooting. Dino does not show a Circuit board for your model on their website.
3. Did you replace the Board due to this same issue?

[Donebee]

dougrainer wrote:
If on AUTO and it started on 120 and tnen errored out and switched to LP, That means the Circuit board did not SEE 120 volts input. OR faulty 120 input
1. Norcold elements rarely fail. You did buy a Norcold Heat Element?
2. Circuit boards rarely fail(you stated it was replaced last year). So, odds are this board is good.
3. Are you POSITIVE you have GOOD 120 volts to the RV?
4. In 40 years as a RV tech, I have never see a Heat Element work for a while and then fail.
5. Plugged into your home. That sometimes means your Home outlet may be the problem. Possible reverse polarity or heavy load by the RV. Is the unit plugged into a regular wall receptacle or do you have a dedicated 30 or 50 amp outlet? Doug

WHY are you fixated on the 120 element? Below is the diag explanation for C6. Says nothing about the 120 element or operation on 120

C6 Fault within refrigerator controls Not owner serviceable; Consult your dealer or a Norcold Service Center
Per Norcold, they have not had the rear control boards in a few years. WHERE did you get your replacement board? Norcold states it must be a Rear control board fault. So, you either have to get someone to repair it(Dinosaur) Or get a Dinosaur replacement board.

1. Yes, purchased Norcold element.
2. Yes, I believe the board is good.
3. Yes, positive.
5. Home outlet is not the problem and no heavy load by RV.

Circuit board was replaced last year (Dinosaur Electronics), who also advised C6 was an AC Heater related issue.

[dougrainer]

If on AUTO and it started on 120 and tnen errored out and switched to LP, That means the Circuit board did not SEE 120 volts input. OR faulty 120 input
1. Norcold elements rarely fail. You did buy a Norcold Heat Element?
2. Circuit boards rarely fail(you stated it was replaced last year). So, odds are this board is good.
3. Are you POSITIVE you have GOOD 120 volts to the RV?
4. In 40 years as a RV tech, I have never see a Heat Element work for a while and then fail.
5. Plugged into your home. That sometimes means your Home outlet may be the problem. Possible reverse polarity or heavy load by the RV. Is the unit plugged into a regular wall receptacle or do you have a dedicated 30 or 50 amp outlet? Doug

WHY are you fixated on the 120 element? Below is the diag explanation for C6. Says nothing about the 120 element or operation on 120

C6 Fault within refrigerator controls Not owner serviceable; Consult your dealer or a Norcold Service Center
Per Norcold, they have not had the rear control boards in a few years. WHERE did you get your replacement board? Norcold states it must be a Rear control board fault. So, you either have to get someone to repair it(Dinosaur) Or get a Dinosaur replacement board.

[Donebee]

Nope, still tests at 44 ohms.

[maillemaker]

OK, so check the resistance on the new element and see if it is now burned up.

Steve

[Donebee]

Okay gang, here's the latest. I had turned off fridge completely. As stated, I tested the new element and it shows 44 ohms cold. Restarted the fridge after work, put on auto, AC mode starts and runs. Last checked before bedtime (6 hours later) and fridge is still running on AC, no issues.

Woke this morning and checked, C6 error, unit had switched on auto mode to LP and was running fine.

[Donebee]

Yes, I did. It had indeed failed. Not that it can't be the circuit board, but it was replaced less that one years ago.

[enblethen]

Did you happen to test your old element for resistance?
Sounds like it is the circuit board

[Donebee]

Okay, I turned off the fridge and let it sit overnight. Tested the new, recently replaced AC Heater and it tests at 44 Ohms. I'm thinking about turning the fridge on, waiting for the element to fail, as it seems to run on AC for 30 minutes or so before it fails. and then ohm it out again once it fails. Perhaps it's failing after the element begins to heat?

[wnjj]

ohm the element out. If the spec is ~2.8A you should read ~43ohms. (120V/2.8A = ~43ohms).

If the element is ok, there is extra resistance from somewhere else including wires, connections or the relay.

The relay in our 621 failed but more drastically. I replaced it for less than $6 (http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29727778/gotomsg/29741786.cfm#29741786)

[enblethen]

I would check for output from the circuit board. The circuit board is looking for resistance of the element. It is possible that the relay is bad on the board. you could wire up a standard 120 volt lamp socket with lamp and connect to output of the circuit board to simulate.the element. If thelamp does not light up, the circuit could be at fault. 60-100 watt incandescent lamp should be sufficient.
Measure your replacement element for resistance across the leads. No resistance means it is open and bad.

[Donebee]

I'm hoping it's a bad element; the last one worked for the five years I've owned the motorhome without any issues.