Forum Discussion

winstonmaberry's avatar
Oct 08, 2018

norcold frig won't run on lp

My Norcold 6162 will run on ac and will light on lp until igniter quits sparking, then the flame goes out. I have removed burner orifice, cleaned very carefully, cleaned igniter. Has a pretty blue flame in the center of heat tube until igniter quits sparking and then goes out immediately. I am suspecting the igniter module but at $130+ I would like to be more condident. Hoping someone out there has experienced this and can assist. I would be very appreciative.


New to RV.NET and have posted this in two different forums. Hoping you will have patience with an old man.
  • Have you cleaned and adjusted the flame sensor?
    I would suggest using a Dinosaur electronics version if you need to replace the circuit board. You can call them for assistance on troubleshooting.
  • It is very rare for a Ignitor and board to fail. The most common cause is the very inexpensive Spark electrode/wire. If any part of the spark electrode ceramic "leaks"(hairline cracks you have difficulty seeing) the return voltage to the control board, it shuts the flame down. Doug
  • You could try cleaning the connector and contacts on the ignitor board.
  • dougrainer wrote:
    It is very rare for a Ignitor and board to fail. The most common cause is the very inexpensive Spark electrode/wire. If any part of the spark electrode ceramic "leaks"(hairline cracks you have difficulty seeing) the return voltage to the control board, it shuts the flame down. Doug


    I did a continuity check on the spark electrode/wire. Not sure that means anything but read somewhere to do that test. Certainly cannot see any cracks in the ceramic.
  • enblethen wrote:
    You could try cleaning the connector and contacts on the ignitor board.



    I did clean the contacts.
  • winstonmaberry wrote:
    dougrainer wrote:
    It is very rare for a Ignitor and board to fail. The most common cause is the very inexpensive Spark electrode/wire. If any part of the spark electrode ceramic "leaks"(hairline cracks you have difficulty seeing) the return voltage to the control board, it shuts the flame down. Doug


    I did a continuity check on the spark electrode/wire. Not sure that means anything but read somewhere to do that test. Certainly cannot see any cracks in the ceramic.


    A continuity check will not tell you if it has a fault. The SPARK is a HI VOLTAGE run thru the wire to the burner. The return flame signal is very small and any OTHER path to ground that leaks that current(Porcelain) will disrupt the return signal and the board assumes NO FLAME and shuts off the gas valve and Ignitor. Doug
  • Again, thank you all for your willingness to help. I had watched a video that showed the igniter staying red out on the end while the burner was on. I got to wondering if mine was not getting hot enough to send the signal back to the board so I used a small propane torch to hold on the igniter and sure enough the burner would stay lighted. I then adjusted the igniter from about 3/16 to about 1/4 above the burner and at that point it did glow just a tad and the burner stays lighted. Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. Thank you again for your help, Winston

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