Ron Nielson wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
But, you still have a 120 volt supply problem. UNLESS, you have an aftermarket 120 element or an Element that is NOT the correct wattage for your refer. That is why I would want to know the amp draw of the element. Doug
Doug
The 120V heater is original to the refrigerator. When tested independent of the control board, the refer works just fine at ~114 volts. So I am fairly certain that the problem is not (primarily) the heater, and that's why I think it IS the control board.
Just to satisfy those who say 'replace the thermistor', I have one on order and will test again with a new thermistor. As pointed out, it's only $15 (and less work than replacing the board) and a board is $100. I'll wait to buy the control board until I've tested with the new thermistor, just to be sure.
I forgot that I had a plug in meter (Kill a Watt) to test volts, amps, etc on a 120V circuit. So I plugged it into the receptacle and the refrigerator into the meter and at 118.0 volts, it indicated 2.45 amps. That comes to about 289 watts (I forgot to look at the watts indicated on the meter) which is just a hair short of the 300 watt rating of the a/c heater itself. I just did this to check the draw for about 30 seconds. The fridge had been turned off for several days and was quite warm.
