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Oven ignitor

Lightning55
Explorer
Explorer
I can't be the first guy to ask this question: Does anyone make a oven ignitor kit that can be added on? Every time my wife wants to use the oven she has to get down on her hands and knees to light the burner. She loves her trailer but hates the oven. I would be her hero if I could install an ignitor.
37 REPLIES 37

cpaulsen
Explorer
Explorer
I added an igniter to an oven.......got it at Home Depot......made for a barbeque grill...was easy install and very cheap. Took a couple hours but worked great!
cpaulsen

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Regarding the "Because of hot hot it gets"

The ignightor itself is a piece of metal wrepped in Ceramic capable of withstanding temps that would literally melt the oven.. It is mounted by a steel bracket to whatever it connnects to. the wire is insulated with something like Teflon and 400-500-600-700-800 more is now sweat No it's not the heat.

it's the dollar it might cost.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

ICamel
Explorer
Explorer
ajriding wrote:
How much heat can an ignitor take before it burns up?

I frequently do a baked potato at 425F for over an hour and it hasn't been an issue. I did cover the oven igniter wire with heat shielding.

ajriding wrote:
For you that have installed one yourself, has it lasted?

It's been over 2 years and has worked flawlessly.
ICamel

2017 Arctic Fox 992
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ktmrfs
Explorer II
Explorer II
wnjj wrote:
ajriding wrote:
I just assumed the reason for no igniter in the oven is due to how hot it gets in the oven.

I always assumed itโ€™s because having a striker inside a closed compartment that may have built up gas was a bad idea.


There are several RV gas ovens with spark ignitors, they just aren't units that are commonly installed by RV mfg.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

wnjj
Explorer II
Explorer II
ajriding wrote:
I just assumed the reason for no igniter in the oven is due to how hot it gets in the oven.

I always assumed itโ€™s because having a striker inside a closed compartment that may have built up gas was a bad idea.

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
I too used an old grill p-zapper and put it on my oven pilot lightโ€ฆ It works great. Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
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Flyfisherman128
Explorer
Explorer
I have a '92 Magic Chef. The pilot light is so faint i can hardley see it when it's lit. I have accidentally left it on after a tank change. It discharges so little gas i can't smell it. My guess is if you left it on all the time it would take years use a tank of gas.

ktmrfs
Explorer II
Explorer II
ajriding wrote:
I just assumed the reason for no igniter in the oven is due to how hot it gets in the oven. Unlike a BBQ where the ignitor is under the unit and out in the open air, the oven is enclosed and the burner is right there. The underneath section of the oven gets hotter than the cooking compartment of the oven. How much heat can an ignitor take before it burns up?

Same for your stove and your hot water heater, the ignitor is not enclosed with the flame.

For you that have installed one yourself, has it lasted?

The trick to lighting an oven is to hold the lighter flame under the thermocoupler so it lets gas flow to the burner, not just the pilot light - then you are lighting the burner where a lot of gas is flowing out, but you also have to turn the oven to the Low setting. You can decide if this is safe for you or not as I am not interested in opinions of course. I do this all the time.


ours has been in the trailer 10 years and we use the oven probably 30+ times/year at least.

The one we got has the one ignitor with a high temp sheathing on the wire. It probably doesn't get as hot as the ignitor in our grill for the IR burner for the rotisserie, which is where the high temp ignitor wire goes. Ignitor can take temps way higher than the oven or grill will produce, it's the wire insulation that one needs to worry about. And there will be only 1-2 inches of wire in the oven, while the whole assembly has the high temp insulation.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

ajriding
Explorer II
Explorer II
I just assumed the reason for no igniter in the oven is due to how hot it gets in the oven. Unlike a BBQ where the ignitor is under the unit and out in the open air, the oven is enclosed and the burner is right there. The underneath section of the oven gets hotter than the cooking compartment of the oven. How much heat can an ignitor take before it burns up?

Same for your stove and your hot water heater, the ignitor is not enclosed with the flame.

For you that have installed one yourself, has it lasted?

The trick to lighting an oven is to hold the lighter flame under the thermocoupler so it lets gas flow to the burner, not just the pilot light - then you are lighting the burner where a lot of gas is flowing out, but you also have to turn the oven to the Low setting. You can decide if this is safe for you or not as I am not interested in opinions of course. I do this all the time.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
dougrainer wrote:
do your test. Wait 5 minutes. Turn on the LP and then spray soapy water on the pilot burner and see if you have bubbles. Do not rely on your smell. If you are positive you have a LP smell and it is leaking after your test, you have a dangerous situation and you need to fix it. Doug
You are so right.. no smell after waiting. Thanks! Strange.. that brings up other questions but I don't want to hijack any more.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

nightshift
Explorer
Explorer
Furrion has an oven with an igniter. Anyone here have one? Pretty fancy. Needs to be hooked up to your 12v system. I don't know the price. Here.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
2oldman wrote:
I just did a test on my Atwood oven.

Left pilot on, went outside and turned off gas. Pilot burned for a few minutes then extinguished. No gas smell. Turned gas back on. Immediate strong gas smell in the oven.

So, I guess that means the thermocouple doesn't work or never existed in the first place.


Thermocouple did not have enough time to "cool down" with your test.

Needs a few minutes to cool down.

Thermocouples are basically self generating a small voltage when there is considerable amount of heat like a direct flame on the tip.

In essence you take two dissimilar metals and make a junction of those metals. When heat is applied to the junction a small amount of voltage is generated.. A thermocouple contains multiple junctions in series to get enough voltage to operate the gas valve.



That voltage is just enough to hold the pilot gas valve open on the oven control.

This is also often found in very old furnace systems and is called a "millivolt" system where the thermocouple was not only used for the pilot light but the thermostat circuit.

So, a thermocouple is housed in a metal probe, takes a few minutes to get enough heat into the junctions to keep the gas valve open, it also takes some time for the probe to cool down enough that it no longer generates enough voltage to hold the valve open.

Your experiment actually would be better if you simply wait a few minutes.. to allow the thermocouple to cool. Turning it off then back on immediately after flame has extinguished is not a valid test.

However, keeping in mind that while the gas pressure will drop to a point that there is not enough to sustain the pilot.. The thermocouple will hold the gas valve open a short time after no more flame and allow whatever small amount of propane left in the line still flowing. This will not be enough propane to be a hazard but you will still be able to smell it for a short time.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
dougrainer wrote:
What Year Model RV? Yes, your thermocoupler is not working or you have a OLD Oven/range. Almost all Oven's you have to put the temp knob in the Pilot indent,PUSH the knob IN and light the pilot. Once the pilot is lit, hold the knob in(30 seconds) and release and the pilot should stay lit.
2002 coach, not sure of age of oven.I have to push the knob in to get it to move to pilot position, but no holding required.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
2oldman wrote:
I just did a test on my Atwood oven.

Left pilot on, went outside and turned off gas. Pilot burned for a few minutes then extinguished. No gas smell. Turned gas back on. Immediate strong gas smell in the oven.

So, I guess that means the thermocouple doesn't work or never existed in the first place.


What Year Model RV? Yes, your thermocoupler is not working or you have a OLD Oven/range. Almost all Oven's you have to put the temp knob in the Pilot indent,PUSH the knob IN and light the pilot. Once the pilot is lit, hold the knob in(30 seconds) and release and the pilot should stay lit. Now, to your test. You shut the LP OFF, Then went out. You then turned the LP back on and smelled gas. A few minutes can be subjective. Maybe less than a minute? Once the Pilot goes out, it takes a few seconds for the Thermocoupler to cool down and shut on the Pilot tube of the Oven tstat. What I would do, is, do your test. Wait 5 minutes. Turn on the LP and then spray soapy water on the pilot burner and see if you have bubbles. Do not rely on your smell. If you are positive you have a LP smell and it is leaking after your test, you have a dangerous situation and you need to fix it. Doug