30 watt 36 volt chips
This is for a store. I'm going to use a Dc/DC booster for the rig's area lighting.
When the grid goes down out comes a 200 db 5,000 watt generator. By saving more than 400 watts on lighting the deli cooler can stay operating.
I situate the rig's lighting 10 meters away from the patio. Reason? Bugs. Relocated porch light 2 meters to the rear for this reason.
The store issue is not pure altruism. It is THE store or it's a 225 km round trip to the 2nd nearest. I do not want to be forced to consume meat and products that have seen 25C temperatures for extended periods. At the moment the Viking is holding over 250 pounds of mango slices.
Money is an object for this "mandato" (task). Chips, wiring, driver and heat sinks. I'm afraid this one will be a one driver does all arrangement.
Yes this all gets breadboarded out before the chips go up and driver gets mounted. Trust the Chinese for accurate data? Shirley you jest...
If I need to I will omit a chip to stay within wattage limits of the driver.
Some folks can toss four hundred dollars at a driver for this project, I cannot.
The rig gets three chips total and obviously a different voltage supply. This lets me ignite the chips on battery or shore power (through a battery power supply.
The store is a whole other animal. I just cannot tolerate first generation fluorescent lighting. it gives me a headache and makes inventory products look like they have Ring Around the Collar. Buzzing, blackened tube ends. Ballasts too hot to touch, This description could be applied to early ThinLite RV lighting as well.
Below is a link to the LED I had in mind...http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/SE-350-36.shtml