Refeer Box Temp

Carvin a danfoss just refers to the type of compressor that is used. I bought my fridge from nova kool. They have a wide selection.

Yes you need 2 batteries instead of one. I also have 200 watts of solar. I always have a genny with me. Mine uses about 60 watts when running. Basically it is just like your home fridge and needs no leveling in fact will run just fine when you are way out of level. I enjoyed the project of installing mine and the solar. The fridge is great.

Propane would be great if it worked out of level and in extreme heat. Definitely handy to run a fridge for month on a 5 gallon tank of propane.

For me I will always have a compressor type fridge in the future.

The Nova Kool fridges are made in lot of sizes that match to rv fridges size specs. So replacement is not difficult.

What is a Danfoss?Secop compressor fridge? Need extra batteries and solar for boon docking? Thanks for the responses. It's holding 34 in the box. We are in San Diego now. Also; some mention was made of blockage. I was wondering if I were to use a rubber mallet and give the coils a few resounding whacks if that might get it's attention, or make it stop totally. Freezers stay at 2 degrees.

You might try it on lp, usually when it's that hot, the voltage will be low, and you can get much better performance on gas.

dons2346 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

dons2346 wrote:
I would make sure the thermocouple inside the fridge portion hasn't been moved. You change the inside temp by moving it either up or down on the fin.

You should be able to get it lower than 47

It's a thermistor AND moving it only applies to those models that do NOT have adjustable temp settings (models that use 'Auto Temp Control')



Absorption fridges CAN maintain temps below 42*F in hot ambient air conditions
IF:
RV MFG installed fridge in accordance with the fridge mfgs instructions.....very narrow/zero clearances, airflow/draft requirements, no dead air spaces, properly sealed cabinet etc

Then owners have to do some routine maintenance

Well, pardon my French.
I had a combo refer that had the THERMISTOR on the fins and I could adjust temp settings, not by temp but cold,colder, and auto.

It's not about French
Thermocouple generates a millivot signal
Thermistor is a resistive sensor

Fridges with adjustable temp settings such as 1-5 and 1-9 use the thermistor in a set location on fin. Thermostat is calibrated for a temp range based on fin temp. Moving the thermistor will not change that preset temp range

Fridges with 'Auto Temp Control thermostats use the temp sensed by thermistor to control 'heating' cycles so moving thermistor can affect the overall temp by 6*F-8*F

Au revoir

Old-Biscuit wrote:

dons2346 wrote:
I would make sure the thermocouple inside the fridge portion hasn't been moved. You change the inside temp by moving it either up or down on the fin.

You should be able to get it lower than 47

It's a thermistor AND moving it only applies to those models that do NOT have adjustable temp settings (models that use 'Auto Temp Control')



Absorption fridges CAN maintain temps below 42*F in hot ambient air conditions
IF:
RV MFG installed fridge in accordance with the fridge mfgs instructions.....very narrow/zero clearances, airflow/draft requirements, no dead air spaces, properly sealed cabinet etc

Then owners have to do some routine maintenance

Well, pardon my French.
I had a combo refer that had the THERMISTOR on the fins and I could adjust temp settings, not by temp but cold,colder, and auto.

dons2346 wrote:
I would make sure the thermocouple inside the fridge portion hasn't been moved. You change the inside temp by moving it either up or down on the fin.

You should be able to get it lower than 47

It's a thermistor AND moving it only applies to those models that do NOT have adjustable temp settings (models that use 'Auto Temp Control')



Absorption fridges CAN maintain temps below 42*F in hot ambient air conditions
IF:
RV MFG installed fridge in accordance with the fridge mfgs instructions.....very narrow/zero clearances, airflow/draft requirements, no dead air spaces, properly sealed cabinet etc

Then owners have to do some routine maintenance

Every Dometic and Norcold I have ever owned must have had hardening of the arteries right out of the factory packing box. I even tried ducting with a 148mm 198 cfm fan at the flue and dozens of other fan placements.

Outside air temp 94F humidity 88%

Refrigerator DOOR shelf temperature 39F, interior shelf 35.5F

Freezer temp -06.1 F

Thanks to Danforth and lots of insulation.

I just poured a huge mug of sparkling mineral water over ice cubes. POP! SNAP! POP!

Love to see air temp images of 100F, with relationship to freezer temps of 10F on gas. Uhum......images.......

I would make sure the thermocouple inside the fridge portion hasn't been moved. You change the inside temp by moving it either up or down on the fin.

You should be able to get it lower than 47

ScottG wrote:
My fridges have always performed fine even at 104. I suspect you have a partial blockage that has diminished your cooling power.

No worry about 'blockages' or hardening of the arteries with a Danfoss/Secop compressor fridge.

dave17352 wrote:
That's what I got used to with my propane fridges. Anything over 90 degrees and things would start to go down hill quickly. I always supplemented the cooling with Ice jugs.

Then fortunately my propane fridge failed.

I am on my second year with my danfoss compressor fridge and could not be happier. It would be 37 in the fridge there and 0 in the ice box. Not bragging but if that one should fail, I would try a compressor fridge they are great. JMHO

... and cost less than even a propane rebuilt cooling unit.

No brainer for me. I'll have one as well, this winter.