Remove Water Heater Plug

[DougE]

Last fall I was unable to get the water heater plug out to winterize the system. I ended up just blowing out all the lines with compressed air but could still hear water bubbling in the water heater tank. I figured the air trapped in the tank would be sufficient to allow freezing without damaging the tank and I guess that worked. However, any suggestions for removing the plug next year? I had a 1/2" electric (battery) impact wrench on it with no luck. I could see the remnants of Teflon tape on the plug so it had probably been out before. What about heating it with a plumbing torch? I've had success removing frozen bolts by heating them up for a minute. I do have an air impact wrench but was reluctant to try it as it's quite a bit stronger than the electric.

[Wadcutter]

I've removed a few for friends. This has always worked.
Spray around the threads with a good dose of PB Blaster which is a penetrating oil. Don't use WD-40, it's not a penetrating oil. Let the PB Blaster soak for several hours or overnight. Fill the water heater with water, turn it on and let it get to full temperature for an hour or so. Get a can of compressed air like is used for computer cleaning. Spray the nut of the anode tube, and only the anode tube with the compressed air. Air from an air compressor won't work as it doesn't get cold enough. Air from a can of computer cleaner comes out really cold. What this does is cause a temp difference between the water heater threads and the anode tube, one expanding due to heat and one shrinking due to cold. Using a 6 point socket, extension, and breaker bar you will be able to remove the anode rod unless the threads are severely rusted together. Sometimes you have to tighten the anode rod a bit to break it lose then loosen.
I have yet to have this method fail and I've used it several times for friends.

[tomman58]

On all on my Jaycos I've had a plastic plug located behind the gas line. I stopped a "snap on" truck and the guy hooked me up to a "sloppy socket" that works great . It has a stubby extension that is made to allow the socket to move about 20 degrees thus making some of those blind removals possible.

[fj12ryder]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
A 6-point socket of that size would co$t a lot of money. A big rock and the hard place time. Works even better than teflon tape is NICKEL base anti sieze paste. I have had zero luck with any penetrant produced by man versus a siezed tapered pipe fitting.

True, a large 6-point socket isn't cheap, but that is why I stated in my first post "It depends on how badly you want the plug out." I also suggested cleaning the threads with a tap, which is also not cheap in that size, but tools that work, sometimes aren't.

I generally use anti-seize, not sure if it's nickel based or not, on almost any nut or bolt that I figure I'll want to remove at some time.

[fj12ryder]

Bumpyroad wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
Save yourself some grief and use a standard 6-point socket. As tight as that sounds like, a crow's foot isn't going to work, and a cheap one from HF will just round off the corners.

I can access my anode rod without removing the gas tube. I do have to move it to replace the heating element though.

do you have an atwood?
bumpy

No, a Suburban. But if you look at the picture of the Suburban water heater posted previously you can see that the anode rod is accessible with a socket and extension. It's kind of a pain getting the rod started to reinstall it, but it works with a little perseverance.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

A 6-point socket of that size would co$t a lot of money. A big rock and the hard place time. Works even better than teflon tape is NICKEL base anti sieze paste. I have had zero luck with any penetrant produced by man versus a siezed tapered pipe fitting.

[Bumpyroad]

Clarryhill wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
Save yourself some grief and use a standard 6-point socket. As tight as that sounds like, a crow's foot isn't going to work, and a cheap one from HF will just round off the corners.

I can access my anode rod without removing the gas tube. I do have to move it to replace the heating element though.

do you have an atwood?
bumpy

If he's got an anode rod, it doesn't sound like it...

lets not mix apples and oranges here. if an atwood, impossible, if otherwise, maybe. but it is misleading to not clarify which tank you have.
bumpy

[Clarryhill]

Bumpyroad wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
Save yourself some grief and use a standard 6-point socket. As tight as that sounds like, a crow's foot isn't going to work, and a cheap one from HF will just round off the corners.

I can access my anode rod without removing the gas tube. I do have to move it to replace the heating element though.

do you have an atwood?
bumpy

If he's got an anode rod, it doesn't sound like it...

[Bumpyroad]

fj12ryder wrote:
Save yourself some grief and use a standard 6-point socket. As tight as that sounds like, a crow's foot isn't going to work, and a cheap one from HF will just round off the corners.

I can access my anode rod without removing the gas tube. I do have to move it to replace the heating element though.

do you have an atwood?
bumpy

[fj12ryder]

Save yourself some grief and use a standard 6-point socket. As tight as that sounds like, a crow's foot isn't going to work, and a cheap one from HF will just round off the corners.

I can access my anode rod without removing the gas tube. I do have to move it to replace the heating element though.

[Bumpyroad]

D.E.Bishop wrote:

Try a crow foot and ratchet.

I've tried to visualize how a crow foot works. I sort of "assumed" that it with a ratchet worked sort of like a straight open end wrench. does it somehow magically turn the nut similar to a standard socket?
if it will work, its off to harbor freight. 🙂 but I think a 15/16 will be costly.

did a search, the jumbo sets start at 1 1/16 inch and are a bunch of money.
bumpy

[D_E_Bishop]

Bumpyroad wrote:

DrewE wrote:


On Atwood heaters, with the nylon plug inconveniently located behind the gas piping, the only tools I can imagine working are a 15/16" offset box-end wrench (which is virtually impossible to find) or some sort of channel lock or vice grip pliers type tool (which work, but tend to leave the plug worse for the wear and tear). I think it's telling that Atwood sells the replacement plugs in packs of two.

I had a nifty craftsman 7/8 offset ratchet box end that worked great until the b888888s changed to 15/16 and can't find one anywhere. got a "kit" with two plugs and a cheap flat wrench that works but bought a separate 15/16 also.
bumpy

Try a crow foot and ratchet.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

TEFLON TAPE. Brand spanking new rig. No line no waiting. Get it home, out comes the plug, on goes the teflon tape. I use good old Mexican grain vinegar to acidify the tank. Sixteen cups into a 10 gallon tank. Light a fire under it. Set thermostat on max high. Leave hot vinegar and water for 48 hours. Drain but do not flush. Mix one pound of baking soda into water and inject into heater. Leave heat on max for 24 hours ... "Ewwww!!

I have tried all manner of tank cleaning and this one makes a mockery out of the other cleaning attempts. when it is finished, the inside is taken down to bare shiny aluminum or glass, whatever the case. if the tank uses a magnesium sacrifice, replace with a standard PLASTIC plug for the cleaning.

Folks have recovered as much as FOUR FULL CUPS of buildup using vinegar and baking soda. It is USELESS to use vinegar alone. The neutralizer is vital to REMOVE sediment.

[fj12ryder]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
DEFINITION OF "SEVERAL TIMES" ?...

In this case three. In my mind, three times, counts as several.

[JimK-NY]

....move the whole dang RV or tear up the tank....