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Repairing a small crack in the roof of my camper trailer

neu
Explorer
Explorer
I've recently discovered a small crack in the front part of the roof of my mobile home (attached photo). Since I'm new to RV maintenance, I need some advice on how to properly fix this crack. What material should I use and what is the best method to repair it? Thanks in advance for your help!

https://postimg.cc/4nSBRj6P
12 REPLIES 12

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
neu wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
For a crack like that, I remove the old sealant. I then inject URETHANE windhield gasket sealant in the hole to fill the gap. Then use the Dicor over the top. Doug

https://www.amazon.com/Tubes-Dow-Sealant-Adhesive-Urethane-Primerless/dp/B01DJKME0Q/ref=sr_1_12?hvad...


Thank you, Doug. Am I understanding correctly that I need to remove this sealant (highlighted in green in the picture)? How should I best do it? Just cut it with a knife?
What are the benefits of using automotive glass sealant to fill cracks like the one I have? It sounds like something from a completely different field of application.


Urethane(USE LATEX GLOVES) is extremely adhesive and does not run like Dicor or silicone. The Urethane will easily fill the void under the crack and ooze out. wipe the excess smooth, let dry(4 to 6 hours) then cover the existing edge with Dicor. YES, use a knife or putty knife to remove the existing Black sealant. Make SURE it is clean and no moisture when applying the Dicor. Use masking tape around the outer edges to prevent any possible run off and then having to clean up that run off. Doug (44 years as a RV tech).

JBarca
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi neu,

This pic of yours,


I know you are asking how to repair it, but ideally, when a rip in the membrane happens, it raises the question, what caused the membrane to rip?

What year, make, and model is the camper? Did you buy it new, or used?

If you can post more pictures of that entire area ( we need to see a foot or more on the roof, the left wall, and the front wall, that would be helpful. Also, post the other side of the camper so we can see if this manufacturer does the same placement of the corner molding the same on both sides.

The black corner molding in your pic "might" not be in the right place, it "appears" way too high on the roof. The corner molding is supposed to be flatter on top of the roof; the molding side with the screws in it holds it down to the roof. I can also see what might be the top of the gutter rail in your pic, the corner molding is normally closer to the top of the gutter rail, and in this case, it is not. Something may have been assembled wrong or something hit that corner molding and it is lifted up off the roof.

The four corner joints of a camper have a lot of flexing stress going on, and as the camper ages, sealant leaks start in the roof-to-wall four corners due to the flexing. While just caulking may stop a leak now, if something else is going on, Dicor caulk will split faster than normal from the long-term flexing if something tore the membrane.

There is not enough info from your one pic to tell you how to make a repair that will last and not come back, as the cause is not yet understood.

Hope this helps

John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
I'd remove "ALL" the black caulking, and start fresh.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

neu
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
For a crack like that, I remove the old sealant. I then inject URETHANE windhield gasket sealant in the hole to fill the gap. Then use the Dicor over the top. Doug

https://www.amazon.com/Tubes-Dow-Sealant-Adhesive-Urethane-Primerless/dp/B01DJKME0Q/ref=sr_1_12?hvad...


Thank you, Doug. Am I understanding correctly that I need to remove this sealant (highlighted in green in the picture)? How should I best do it? Just cut it with a knife?
What are the benefits of using automotive glass sealant to fill cracks like the one I have? It sounds like something from a completely different field of application.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
For a crack like that, I remove the old sealant. I then inject URETHANE windhield gasket sealant in the hole to fill the gap. Then use the Dicor over the top. Doug

https://www.amazon.com/Tubes-Dow-Sealant-Adhesive-Urethane-Primerless/dp/B01DJKME0Q/ref=sr_1_12?hvad...

neu
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks, everybody, for your advices!
I think I will try to go with NON SAG version of Dicor.

ernie1
Explorer
Explorer
Looks to me that there's more going on than simply a crack appearing. Looks like there's a large and a small crack. Looks like something structural is coming apart and maybe something was never fastened with a screw or bolt. Maybe there was a small crack that occurred awhile back and after a while of exposure to the elements, there might be some structural failure. I think I would check first before trying to seal it up.

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Dicor is what I'd use, but either type will work for that repair. Self level would be best choice, but if I had a non-leveling tube already open, that will work too. A little paint thinner on my finger does a good job of leveling, when needed.

Use of painters tape will eliminate most of the messy look. Just remove it before the dicor starts to set up.

Jerry

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
I've used self-leveling on sloped areas without any problems, and that looked like most of the fracture was on the flat. But granted there is a bit on the edge. Self-leveling isn't like water and run downhill. ๐Ÿ™‚ But you do have a point.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
Since part of what needs sealed is a vertical surface, you will need the NON SAG version of Dicor.
If you use the "self leveling" kind, it will make a mess and run down the wall.
Self leveling is meant for flat horizontal surfaces only.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

Tyler0215
Explorer
Explorer
Yup. Clean ALL the old caulk off and use Dicor.
NEVER use silicon!

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
If it were me, I would remove the old caulk, carefully, and get some self-leveling Dicor sealant/caulk. Clean the area good, make sure it's dry, and put down a generous amount of the sealant. Silicone sealant generally isn't a good idea for this type of application as it can make subsequent repairs very difficult.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"