Safe Placement of a Bottle Jack on a Narrow Frame Rail

Thanks for all the excellent ideas!

After reading everybody's input, I came up with a variation on the theme of having something to hold the bottle jack stationary on the frame.

My plan is to cut up some round metal piping into 1/2" slices (with enough diameter to allow the bottle jack top to be inserted inside). Then weld them to the bottom of the frame rail, three on each side, at the front, end, and middle of the TT.

As for cribbing, I always carry 8-10, 12" long, 4x4's, on each trip, so I'm good there. Also have some that I've "tapered" to allow lifting of one axle for quick, easy tire repairs.

On a side note, during my 6-bolt, axle assembly (leafs, axle, & brakes) replacement, I was surprised how heavy it was---almost 200 lbs. Can't imagine trying to do this without two jacks, one on each end. Re-positioning the leaf springs (on the axle) so they'd line up with the frame hangers (and square with the frame) was especially a fun task--lol!

Thanks again for everybody's input!

You can buy a pad or cradle that sits on top of a standard bottle jack like in the photo. Google bottle jack "pad", "cradle" or "accessories". There's different styles available.

OB offered a solution, of course, it wouldn't have helped for *removing* the axle.
Can be difficult if axle is low to the ground due to a flat.
Bad info for newbies - reader may jack "somewhere else" under the axle, with long lasting negative results.

Some prefer the roll-up method for changing flats - no jack required.

Most trlr and axle mfgrs recommend jacking under the frame - it's a "CYA" - which you can decide if it applies to them, you - or both.

I use a simple variation of MEX's theme for jacking under the frame (which I prefer, anyway).

Use your bottle jack anywhere on the frame (no set locations) -

Cheap and easy:
For the bottle jack - the hunk of 1/4 inch plate - say 6" x 6".
Attach a chunk of 3/4" or 5/8" plywood - with a hole just slightly larger than the ram. (keeps the ram centered in the plate).

Next level:
As above, use a short piece of pipe welded to the plate to center the ram.
Add a couple of pieces of steel to the plate (topside) - which are slightly wider than the frame (and/or the frame you may have next time).

Cribbing under the frame is *always* a good idea for things like removing both wheels/tires on *one* side, or crib *both* sides for changing axles, etc.

For one tire/wheel removal (flats or repairs) jack under the frame with tow vehicle attached, in park, p/brake set - limits movement.
Driving onto a couple of 2x6s or 2x8s with the good tire/wheel helps.
(If it were to come off the jack - it's not going down very far)

BTW - lots of inexpensive bottle jack options at HF.
As well as short or long ram 12T...

~

Thought you said "bottle OF Jack"

Pick your favorite (4)jack points.

Go to the steel store

Get (4) pieces of angle iron 1/4" thick no thinner than that

The angle gets welded to your frame point up legs down.

Use 1/4" thick triangular shaped gussets on the ends of the angles (8) total

Your jack point slipping days are over. The ram cap wedges in the angle.

I use bottle jack directly under spring perch on axle tube to jack up one wheel position at a time.

All dynamic loading occurs where springs are attached to axle tube......good enough to jack there also.

In order to jack on frame I would need to build cribbing at least 12" high (probably higher).