Safe-T-Alert Power Supply

Thanks for the replies... I understand what everyone is suggesting, and thank y'all for them. I have done nothing to change the flow of current to the detector. And until I recently noticed that it was staying after the battery disconnect switch was employed, it always turned off and on "normally" because I would hear it "chirp" when it turned on. I also read in the manual that it is wired to the Load Side of the disconnect. The kitchen is on a slide and I had a roller on that slide replaced right before I put it to sleep for the winter in November. I just recently returned from a trip and that is when I noticed it was staying on. While it was stored I checked on it monthly and now I can't remember if it was powering up and down normally - meaning I don't recall if I heard a chirp. Perhaps the tech for whatever reason screwed with it. Guess I will have to start doing some line tracing.

Remove a battery cable and verify the effect of 'disconnected'.

Doublecheck your wiring on the LP detector. MOST of the solenoid activated LP detectors, have 2- 12 volt inputs. 1 is for the chassis 12 volt and the 2nd is the coach 12 volt. Years ago the OEM's used BOTH inputs correctly. Years later, they connected BOTH 12 volt inputs together to the coach 12 volt supply. If only Black and Red inputs, then you have the newer style. BTW, most OEM's did NOT like to connect the LP detector to the Battery Disconnect. They wired the LP detector direct, because you could still have an LP leak with the battery system turned off and they wanted the detector to be armed at all times. Are you POSITIVE that the Detector was always killed by the battery disconnect. Doug

Exactly how do the batteries get "turned off"?

Does it maybe eventually turn off? You may have some capacitors scattered about the DC system that can power it for a relatively brief period of time. If that's the case, turning on e.g. an incandescent light or fan motor should make it turn off (and stay off) quickly.

Alternately, there may be some sort of a relatively high impedance sneak path around (or through) the disconnect solenoid, either through some device connected on either side (a voltmeter/battery monitor, for instance) or through some wiring oddity (conductive cruft of some sort on the solenoid, for instance).

Does it have its own battery back up, perhaps?

Moved from Forum Technical Support

IF battery disconnect switch turns all other DC power off/on but not LP detector then detector would have to be wired from battery side of discount (lead side)

IF connected to load side of disconnect and doesn't turn off when disconnect is off then it would have to have another power source that doesn't go thru disconnect switch

Sounds like you need to trace wiring to detector.