Solar Panel Venting

Bear in mind, you can purchase various thicknesses. I've seen 1/2" thick sheets before. That would offer excellent breath-ability, and probably stay much cooler too. Doing a little research, I found that there is a fireproof variety too.

My plan is to keep the flutes directed to the sides, tape the front and back with Eternabone, and leave the flutes open to the air. I will have two strips of about 5 inch wide coreplast run diagonally across the roof and I will put tape where the diagonal shows. The flutes will remain open on one end on both sides where the diagonal is taped so nothing gets completely blocked.

This is the underside of the plastic panel, left over yard signs

The coreplast will get a few pieces of VHB tape to the roof, on the diagonal -in the red patches - just to keep it from lifting in the middle.
This gives more than 1/4 inch space from the roof with all air pockets.

By lifting most of the coreplast panel this gives water ability to drain off, as I think water will get under the panels no matter what at some point, and of course, airflow between roof and panels.

Yes, I prefer the glass panels, but to be able to mount panels in needy locations the flex ones make it possible where otherwise I would not have the option.

***update, all tapped on. It feels secure just lifting up on it, and this is more than probably the wind will lift.

Not pretty, but it is the roof. White styrofoam to keep rain out of electric box…
Bad lighting, the tape is mostly white, the roof is more dirty today, it is not duct tape nor that color.

The tape is never directly across from more tape, so at least one side of the plastic is open so the flutes can breath. Most of them are open on both sides. The main plastic board is suspended by the diagonals, so air can flow and water can get out. Water gets in, but it seems to do that no matter what.

The round black top is the air vent. I took off the 14 inch vent and put in this 8 inch one so there was room to put the panels on a flat spot. Otherwise they would hang over the curves.

I may run the two panels in series so that will simplify the wires.

I've read about Lots of flex panels that were having issues. Renogy pulled their earliest versions due to the amount of problems

I think some purchasers were under the impression that they could flap around in a rv's slipstream at 65mph without worry.

I got a 100 watt SunPower flex panel, I try to not flex it, or bend it much at all. I use it as a portable.

There are you tube reviews of flex panels with guys saying you can walk on them and such. I think this level of long term durability is long off in the future

The sunpower flex panels are basically 2x the $ per watt of the cheapest flex panels. Does this make them better as they claim? IDK, I'd hope so.

Lots of boaters were attaching the cheaper ones to flexible biminis and quick failures, then using very pricey Solbian flex panels and saying no issues, yet.

The coroplast likely burns nicely, but should help keep it cooler and the roof below from getting as hot. Perhaps two perpindicular layers so can flow from 4 directions instead of two, under it.

I've not measured mine's output with no/little vs excellent airflow underneath, but it certainly is hot when I no longer need its additional output to maintain absorption voltage and put it away, being careful to not bend it as it is even more flexible when hot.

I was considering making a thin stiffening frame out of some aluminum screen channel to keep bending to a minimum and add minimal thickness for when I store it.



$3.50 for 7 feet glue these to the roof, two per cell width, glue panel to them

I'm part of several Facebook RV groups and saw yesterday a guy posted a picture of his flex panel installation where the panel was mounted directly to the RV roof. The panel overheated and started a fire on the roof with considerable damage. Because of this I personally believe flex panels are high risk in any RV installation. I don't believe there's away to get sufficient airflow for them.

Just my humble opinion.

reflectix, the bubble wrap stuff probably would not have any cooling effect, it does not let air flow through itself. It would keep the ceiling cooler though.

The eternabond tape came off 99%. Easy with a heat gun and a sharp scraper. There is some residue but it I leave it no biggie…
Yes, my camper is built like a boat hull, so I doubt standing water matters, but I rather it stay dry.

I took off this aluminum 14 inch plate (the white one taped on),

and then put in the AC, and put the plate on the front opening (to the left), after removing the Superfan (still have Superfan on the right of photo). I had an 8 inch exhaust fan, so put that in the aluminum plate now. This smaller fan allows just enough room now so i can put solar panels at the front, and no shade from the AC unit. Pics later when I install panels.
The solar panels are loose now, still wired in.

They get incredibly hot. When one of my framed panels failed, I glued a flex one on top of it.

Heat and longevity are downside to flexible panels. If you want to lift the flexible panels why not go with rigid panels?

I love to find new uses for that corrugated plastic. And this sounds like a great one. Unrelated to that, but I've ended up trapping water more than once on my roof with no ill effects even after years. Would reflectix work?