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Horizon170's avatar
Horizon170
Explorer
Nov 26, 2016

Sprinter lug nuts

I thought that all the Gorillas in the USA were in captivity---WRONG, one in the wild tightened the lug nuts on my 3500.
Flat tire, at home, and I was attempting to take it off the normal way. Craftsman Electric impact got laughed at by the nuts (Before you tell me about impacts I loosen with impact and tighten with Torque wrench). I tried a 1/2 in. craftsman breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater and the extensions torqued about a 1/8 turn and I was afraid any more pressure would snap something. I went to the Flea market and bought a used SK 3/4 in ratchet and an 8 in. ext ($55.00). Then got a 3/4 to 1/2 in. adapter so I could use my 19mm 1/2 in. drive impact socket The 8 in. ext. was too short so I got a 16 or 18 in. ext. from NAPA. Finally got the wheel off and couldn't find a leak. Used soapy water all over so I guess the leak was where the 135* valve connected to the regular valve.($106.00 in tool purchase.)
By now you are probably bored with this story but the reason is to make sure you have the proper tools for tire changing. (I know some will say call AAA, etc, but way back in the hills you may need to do it yourself.)
I'm old and it was/is tiresome for me but with the right tools you can get/pay some younger person to help.
Those nuts had to be torqued to around 300# and I think the book says 178#, if memory serves.
I didn't get a full tool bag with the purchase of a used RV.
Now I will torque all the lug nuts proper before going on trip.
I hope the over torquing didn't weaken the studs.
  • agesilaus's avatar
    agesilaus
    Explorer III
    Nov 26, 2016
    I keep one of these on hand: Gorilla Wrench to loosen tight lug nuts. My lug nuts don't have to be torqued to 178 ft-lb.

    And you can properly use an impact wrench so long as you have the correct one of these on it: Torque Stick I doubt you'll find one at 178 ft-lbs tho. Here is one for 175 ft-lb link
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Nov 27, 2016
    I thought you might be telling us the Left Rear had Left Hand threads! I was having tires installed on our old Class C (1983 E350) and fortunately was at the coach as a "tech" was struggling. Used to be common to use Left on the Left, but ours had Left only on the Rear. Left Front was Right Hand.

    I follow "trust bur verify" when it comes to this stuff. Send On our cars, I'd find a couple nuts loose, couple nuts over tight... It was a Ford-something (we had a TBird and an Aeroster) and I found the left front so tight I went to a 3/4" breaker bar to loosen them. Re-torqued and never had a problem. I've heard of over tightening warping the rotors/drums, but that didn't happen either.

    You're probably OK. That's from my "domestic" vehicle experience, and I doubt MB uses sub standard hardware.

    Torque Stick is only good when you tighten up to the torque spec "from below." If a shop guns it down to more than the spec, then switches to the stick... Well, it won't tighten any more, but it sure won't back it down to the right spec.
  • naturist's avatar
    naturist
    Nomad
    Nov 27, 2016
    Sadly, many there are who throw on the air wrench and have at it, without recourse to any sort of torque measuring/limiting device. And I have had brake rotors warped by those clowns.
  • Horizon170's avatar
    Horizon170
    Explorer
    Nov 28, 2016
    I read on one site that my torque should be 140-150#. I think my manual says 170n something. Anyone else confused?
    Marvin
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Nov 28, 2016
    The conversion is 1.355, so 140 ft lb is about 190 NM

    conversion clicky

    Ford E-Series with hub-piloted 8-lug wheels is 140 ft lb
  • Chum_lee's avatar
    Chum_lee
    Explorer
    Nov 28, 2016
    Whenever I have work done which requires the wheels (lug nuts/bolts) to be removed on ANY of my vehicles, I ALWAYS check and retorque the fasteners to the proper torque in the proper sequence. Think about it. If you find out some gorilla over torqued your wheels when you are somewhere out in the sticks with a flat tire, or need some other service/repair, WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO?

    More than once I've struggled to maintain my composure as I asked the "technician" to recheck the fastener torque before I left the shop because my 250 ft-lb torque wrench won't break the lug nuts/bolts loose. It's such a simple thing but many shops find it impossible to get it right the first time. Be proactive!

    Chum lee
  • CharlesinGA's avatar
    CharlesinGA
    Explorer
    Nov 29, 2016
    3500 T1N series Sprinter, 2006 and earlier is 133 lb/ft. These are fairly small studs for the size of the vehicle. Later models, are, that I know of, the same.

    For rear wheels, take a 2x8 and use a hole saw to drill staggered 7/8 inch holes in it. You set this on the ground vertical, slip the extension thru the best hole that lines up with the particular lug nut, and put the socket on and then you, can much more easily break the lugs loose. I bought a 2 ft harbor freight breaker bar to keep with extensions and 19 mm socket just for this purpose. Have another socket that fits the belt tensioner on the 5 cylinder, makes changing the belt a 10 minute job.

    No one, but no one, ever tightens lugnuts on my cars, except for myself.

    Be careful not to lose this split conical washers that go under the lugnuts. They are a Benz/Chrysler only item. The lug nuts are available thru Dorman as p/n 611-295.1 is one each in a bag. Stupid expensive, you can get a box of ten, same p/n without the point one on the end, for a lot less. Mine were all rusted so I changed every one of them.

    Charles
    2007 Winnebago View 523H on a 2006 Dodge (Daimler-Chrysler aka Mercedes) Sprinter 3500 chassis (T1N). Bought Sept 2015 with 18K miles on it, Prog Ind HW30C, Prog Dymanics PD4645, Chill Grille, PML/Yourcovers.com deep alum trans pan, AutoMeter 8558 trans temp gauge, Roadmaster sway bar, Fantastic Ultra Breeze hood, added OEM parabolic mirrors and RH aspherical mirror.

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