Storage compartment door issue

Fire Instructor wrote:
On a previous unit, I had basement doors that had no locks. The foam material was inadequate to secure locks to, so I removed the doors, carefully scraped most of the foam material from the back side of the door, and cut and glued a piece of plywood in place of the foam. I made sure that the hinge screws went into the plywood by using a much longer screw, so that the door was properly supported. Can’t remember if it was 5/8” or 3/4” ply.... I had that unit for another 7or 8 years, and it was still fine when I traded it. A benefit was that I was able to screw storage clips to the back side of the doors to store small items like the stabilizer crank and the 30 to 15 amp adapter....

I found a website for Trekwood RV in Indiana. I called and talked to the lady in the parts department and they indicated they could take my VIN and measurements and have the door specifically for my unit color matched. I will likely go this route. It looks like its $150-$250 depending on the size of the door.

If its not too expensive, I would get a new door. I would want it to match though. I looked quickly online for someone who makes replacement doors but didn't see many choices but I need to look harder.

On a previous unit, I had basement doors that had no locks. The foam material was inadequate to secure locks to, so I removed the doors, carefully scraped most of the foam material from the back side of the door, and cut and glued a piece of plywood in place of the foam. I made sure that the hinge screws went into the plywood by using a much longer screw, so that the door was properly supported. Can’t remember if it was 5/8” or 3/4” ply.... I had that unit for another 7or 8 years, and it was still fine when I traded it. A benefit was that I was able to screw storage clips to the back side of the doors to store small items like the stabilizer crank and the 30 to 15 amp adapter....

Subscribed. I'm having the same issues with both storage doors and my outside kitchen door. The inside material is all bubbled and delaminated and the doors are soft inside.

From the factory, the metal trim around the doors never had caulking around it. I was told they had a tape sealant inside and didn't need anything else. Once I noticed the water penetration I caulked the outside around all the edges. It didn't seem to help as the doors got worse. I can't see where the water is getting in them.

Instead of replacing the doors I'm considering trying to repair them. New doors won't match and I have several decals that cross them that I can't find to replace. I'm thinking of taking the outer trim ring off and trying to separate the outer skin from the rotted wood and then laminating it onto new pressure treated ply. Anyone done this before?