Suburban SW10DEL quit working on gas, just fault light

Ok, after studying service manual and searching, it appears that the delay is normal (12-16 seconds). I have found nothing about the high pitched noise, but it is barely noticeable when the control module is put back in the cabinet on the far side of the water heater...

Thanks all that offered suggestions, it appears that it is working normally now. I suspect bad connection that had it working differently on the previous times we used it. I am glad it was not bad, I have learned more about my trailer now and will know how to troubleshoot the water heater should the need arise in the future.

I have the printouts and went out to check things out...

Previous trip, the gas water heater fired right up, no fault light, only a few seconds delay before sparking.

Last trip, immediate fault light, no sparking.

Troubleshooting,

Removed drawers to reach control board, unplugged and moved to side of water heater accessible from cabinet under stereo. Discovered high pitched noise coming from control board along with the fault light. So with meter in hand, I turned on the switch, got the immediate fault light and high pitched noise as before, but by the time I was ready to check voltages on control board, it sparked and started. I still have the noise, perhaps it was there before but I could not hear it under/inside the cabinet??

I did not time it with stop watch, but it appears a ~10 second delay and then it starts? Is this normal?

Thanks for the suggestions. I will get out there later and try them. I am not getting any sparking at all.

I just went thru the trouble shooting and had spark and good voltage at the gas valve solenoids. Water heater would try to light 3 times. I had ran a brush thru the burner tube and it was clean, no spiders. The one easy thing I failed to check was the actual gas orifice. It appeared clean but I did not run a wire in it to be sure. Replaced the gas valve assembly thinking it was bad. I knew the control board was working due to the voltage at the valve solenoids and the 3 light attempts. New valve and same no light. Decided to take a closer look at the orifice and found it was clogged. Stupid me -- the simplest thing was the cause. Cleaned out good with pipe cleaner and fires right up on 1st attempt with nice strong blue flame. Randu

Fault light means it didn't light off on propane.

Could be:
High temp t-stat has tripped........push reset button (outside compartment rubber cover.....right button)
Could be spark electrode....bad electrode, dirty electrode, electrode out of position, high voltage wire shorting to ground, cracked ceramic
Could be dirty burner tube, dirty main orifice, misaligned burner tube
Could be dirty combustion/exhaust chamber
Could be low DC voltage
Could be low propane pressure
Could be dirty contacts/connector on circuit board
Could be loose wires on t-stats..or gas valve
Could be faulty gas valve


Service Manual Your model is same as SW10DE)

go outside measure voltage accross legs 2 and 4 if you do not have 12.8 or higher it will not open the valve but if you hear it sparking your control board is working look for the soarce of low voltage