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Davidlee64's avatar
Davidlee64
Explorer
Aug 22, 2017

Suburban HWH not working?

I decided today to verify that my Suburban water heater needs a new 120 V heating element. I removed the gas nozzle, and pulled the cover over the end of the element. I checked, and got 0 ohms across the terminals, telling me it's time for a new one. I put it all back together, then ordered a new element and sacrificial anode. I closed it all up and turned it back on. Now the light on the inside wall switch doesn't come on. I checked fuses and the 120 V circuit breaker. All is well, but nada at the switch. Now I am scratching my head at what is going on. In the manual, there is mention of an ECO reset. Line 3 of copy and paste from the manual.
"If the burner will not come on, the following items should be checked before
calling a service person.
1. Switch turned off.
2. Gas supply to heater is empty or turned off.
3. Reset button on ECO is tripped."

What or where is this "ECO" they are referring to?
Water heater is Suburban SW6DE.

9 Replies

  • Davidlee64's avatar
    Davidlee64
    Explorer
    Aug 25, 2017
    Old-Biscuit wrote:
    Just remember while working on it that the 12V DC is still energized so make sure no one touches the Propane ON/OFF switch. 120V AC side and 12V DC side are separate systems.

    I better keep an eye out for the RV gremlin, as there is no one here but me.
  • Davidlee64's avatar
    Davidlee64
    Explorer
    Aug 25, 2017
    Yes, I noticed the circuits are separate. It seems the only way to shut off the 12v side is to use the battery disconnect after pulling the shore power plug. I discovered my shore power receptacle was also fried. I eneded up replacing the receptacle and the twistlock connector on the shore power cord. I ordered a new cord and will swap when it gets here. I couldn't get the water proof cord or replacement end at the local RV supplier. I may get the correct end and make a custom length cord after the new one arrives. I only need 10 feet or so.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Aug 23, 2017
    Just remember while working on it that the 12V DC is still energized so make sure no one touches the Propane ON/OFF switch

    120V AC side and 12V DC side are separate systems.
  • Davidlee64's avatar
    Davidlee64
    Explorer
    Aug 23, 2017
    I got the secondary issue resolved. I cleaned the terminals on the light bulb. Now it works again. Hooray. Now to wait for new parts to get here so I can install them. I don't know which 12v fuse is for the HWH, so I will just pull the main power CB. That should cover it. Just to avoid confusion, the 12v/gas side has been working. I wanted to be able to use the 120v element to save a bit of gas. I had an idea that the element was bad. The PO didn't seem to want to fix anything correctly. If he couldn't glue it back together, it stayed out of service.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Aug 23, 2017
    Davidlee64 wrote:
    I just took the cover off and they look ok. Nice and clean. It was working fine prior to me testing the heater element. AFAIK anyway. It acts like there is a blown fuse somewhere.


    No fuse involved on electric heating function....all 120V AC power

    Comes from an 120V AC circuit breaker to ON/OFF switch (OEM one is in lower left corner...outside compartment----if you have one inside RV BOTH have to be on....wired in series)

    From switch to set of t-stats..first to HI Temp (top one--resettable) then to Normal (bottom one) via connecting fuse wire.
    Left set is 120V AC ---black wires
    Right set is 12V DC (propane)...red wires

    From t-stat to element...black wire) thru element and back to common/neutral bus via white wire.

    Use a voltmeter and follow the AC Voltage
    And as mentioned..MIGHT be a AC Junction box involved where wires are connected using wire nuts.





    Just FYI.future needs....12V DC wiring
  • Davidlee64's avatar
    Davidlee64
    Explorer
    Aug 23, 2017
    I just took the cover off and they look ok. Nice and clean. It was working fine prior to me testing the heater element. AFAIK anyway. It acts like there is a blown fuse somewhere.
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Aug 23, 2017
    YES. There are four little thermostatic cutoffs under the rubber cover. The two with extensions on them are the Energy Cut Off (ECO) thermostats. Those two are pushable to re-set. One for 120VAC operation, one for LPG operation.

    It's likely that you have a wiring failure in a junction box. On ours, since the 120VAC connection box is against the inside of the outer coach wall when the HWH is installed, Jayco ran a short line from there to a "punch down" junction box under our kitchen sink. I opened it up and found one of the punch downs had burned out. I fixed ours by gutting the box and using it as a splice box. Connected the wires using wire nuts with tape over them.
  • Davidlee64's avatar
    Davidlee64
    Explorer
    Aug 22, 2017
    newman fulltimer wrote:
    under the black square in the upper center


    You are referring to the T-stat/Hi-limit switches under the rubber cover? I pushed both of them already.

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