I have a Parallax 7345 converter in my 2004 5th wheel. The PO decided that since it wasn't charging the batteries, the best thing to do was put a battery charger on them. I am looking at a PD4600 series upgrade kit. But, after looking at what is involved, I also need to do some wiring upgrades as well. In trying to figure out the wiring, I discovered a pair of red 8 or 10 ga wires going up into the floor about where the power center is. Both are hooked to the + side of the battery. Then there is a pair of similar size going into the wall. One is red, the other is pink. I located the 10 ga romex from the shore power receptacle, and 10 ga romex from the generator. I don't know how the genny is hooked into the system, until I can pull out the converter and get an eyeball on things. I found a pair of red 8 ga or so wires next to the bed. One wire has black tape wrapped around it to indicate neg side, I presume. I love trying to track these kinds of messes down. So after all is said and done, what would be recommended for the genny to power center hookup? An automatic transfer switch? Unplug the shore power before starting the genny? A simple disconnect so there is no feedback into the pedestal? I do want to be able to run the generator every so often to exercise it without damaging anything.

Let me put it this way.. GOOD CHOICE.In 2005 when I got my Class A... IT came with a Progressive Dynamics converter with charge wizard. I went looking to see if there was a better converter out there.. So far. There is not. Found a few as good. but not one I'd rank as better.Dongle optional. For most people it will never be used I have used mine a few times in what 12 years but Well. special conditions I hope to avoid).As for a Generator.. Up to 60 amp most any 1,000 watt inverter generator, 60 and up make it 2,000, automatic or manual transfer..of AC power is up to you but unless the generator is a built in model.. Manual is way less expensive (Plug it in to the generator) a pair of Honda 2000 watt INVERTER generators with parallel kit (or equal) will provide all the power a 30 amp RV needs.. IF yours if a 50 you may need MORE POWER, MORE POWER. up to 10,000 watts. but Well my 50 amp class A gets by on 5500 just fine (Onan traditional generator)NOTE: Inverter Generators the peak power is a hard limit.. Traditional generators can exceed peak for very short periods, So though a 1000 watt Honda Inverter job won't run my converterm, a 1,000 watt Genrac Portable has.

Thanks for the reply, wa8xym. I am considering getting the dongle, since it is inexpensive, and another gadget. ;) My genny is a built-in Generac Q55 (2004 ?)with remote control. I imagine it's from the factory. 5500 watts, 120 V output. I have to sort out the wiring. There is a disconnect on the + side, but I can't remember which wire it is on until I go out and look again. There is no fuse or circuit protection on the wires to the batteries that I have seen yet. I believe there is a requirement per the install instructions. I also ordered the correct wire (8 ga, 90C) and new battery lugs to make sure the wire itself meets code from the battery to the charging section.

I thought about this, and I cannot locate a negative connection to my house batteries to or from the converter. The neg side of the batteries is connected to the switch for the jack on the front of the trailer. I have 12 volts between the pos and neg terminals on the converter, but no return path for 12 volts to the batteries themselves. In my 50+ years experience, this does not seem that it should work to charge the batteries. Which it doesn't. But with a battery charger on there, I get 12 volts to all circuit breakers. Without it, the batteries go dead, and 12V stuff starts to go out or lights go dim. What am I missing here?

I found a diagram that gives me the idea that the neg side to the battery is the chassis. But the diagram shows chassis ground, and a cable from the ground buss in the converter to the battery. The lack of that neg cable is what threw me. I will be adding a neg cable when I install the new converter. The current battery cables to the converter are a double 14 gauge positive, and a 14 gauge wire to the jack motor switch. I have already ordered 8 gauge 90° C wire and lugs to run from the batteries to the converter. I suspect the junction in the positive wire is a circuit breaker. I need to pull it out so I can see it and verify what it is.

Sounds like you know what you are doing. . Using chassis as negative is a fairly common practice. In fact there is one reason for NOT running a separate negative wire but I do not think it applies to you. Does to me though (I sometimes press a button that puts 100 Watts RF into a wire 50=90 feet long and well ground loops (Multiple paths to groudn) can be an issue when you do that... But you don't do that)

Time for a new power converter. | Good Sam Community

Davidlee64
Explorer
Sep 11, 2017
Update: Converter is all done, except to put the covers back on. It was not a difficult job, other than me wanting to make some updates and repairs. The ground buss bar in the cabinet had some corrosion at the wire terminations. I cut, stripped and reinstalled those. I also numbered the fused leads at the fuse board, clipped, stripped, and installed those as well. The main battery cables were 8AWG, so I upgraded to 6AWG.
Davidlee64
Explorer
Sep 10, 2017
A few more pics for those that like pics! :)

Some of the fine wiring I found that I am replacing.
dewey02
Explorer II
Sep 09, 2017
I think this guy may have some suggestions about power converters! :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X66jntR0MVE
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Sep 09, 2017
Black, Blue, and Red for three phase systems helps me to identify which phase is which for balancing circuits.

No more red and black in 12 volt circuits - it's dangerous. Red and yellow.
Davidlee64
Explorer
Sep 09, 2017
Just a couple of progress pics. The preliminary cables and lugs are time consuming. The construction is a nightmare. The studs in the battery disconnect were bigger than the lugs I got, so I had to ream out 2 lugs to fit. The battery switch attaching bolts were behind the gas bottle, bent over, and difficult for one person to work on. I have a habit of doing the hard stuff first. Next will be to run the new cables to the converter compartment.
Davidlee64
Explorer
Sep 09, 2017
All my materials for new converter install have arrived. The temp out is only supposed to be 94° today, so I figured might as well start installing it. I started in the genny/battery bay. Here is a shot of the new circuit breaker installed. I am making up new wires for the battery disconnect switch, so those pics will follow. The blue colored device upper left is the CB for the genny.
Davidlee64
Explorer
Sep 07, 2017
I don't believe the electrical system has been modified from original. But it has no rhyme or reason either. Depending on where you look, the battery compartment wires are red (+), and black (-). Except for the positive lead between the 2 batteries is green with red shrink on each end. In the converter box the 12 V positive (+) feed wires to each circuit are black, black with white stripe, red, and blue. The battery leads at the PC board are red (+) and green (-). I tracked which fuse goes where by process of elimination. Pull a fuse, then see what goes off or no longer works. Do this one at a time, and write everything down. If I need to physically locate wires in the walls, I use a tone generator.
D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Sep 05, 2017
I know that I am lucky in having a non-modified electrical system and a very accurate set of schematics, is it posible that your rigs manufacturer has accurate schematics. While you appear to be very capable guy, it is much easier to trace wires with schematics.

If you haven't checked perhaps you should.

It seems that doubling up conductors rather than pull heavier wires is quite common and drives me nuts as does the use of a single wire color for so many circuit.

Good luck and ditto on the pictures and updates.
westend
Explorer
Sep 05, 2017
A suggestion: Don't assume any wire's jacket cover insures that it is a certain phase in the 12V system (nor any wire wrapping with tape). Check continuity and install heat shrink on each connector with YOUR schedule. I use red and black shrink, YMMV.

BTW, my PD 808 converter just had a birthday--46 years old. Enjoy!
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Sep 05, 2017
Best of fortune to you! PLEASE post step-by-step images. Later on, someone will love you for it.

Safety first. Take lots of cellphone images, a flawless memory. Use appropriate size wire nuts to cap AC wires. Nitrile mechanic's gloves work great to prevent shocks.