It is a Hopkins Agility controller.
Artum Snowbird wrote:
What boost level are you at? Try turning it up. I am at 3 out of 5 and think I might try 4.
I upped it for the last trailer. I think it's at 4. I made the assumption that 90 was max the controller can put out, maybe it's max for that setting?
jodeb720 wrote:
I just went through this last year with my Al-Ko brakes (4400lbs mind you). it turns out my old controller was feeding a small amount of power to the magnets and they were dragging.
Eventually, after a lot of replaced parts (complete back assemblies), the drums were worn down to the stud!
Check your drums. I found them worn down. if they are worn down, you're looking at between 125-150 per drum to replace them.
If you're like me, you can order new axles, drop shipped near you, and install them faster than doing the drums and backing plates...
just my two cents...
josh
Did check the drums, no noticeable grooves. Only replaced all the pads because one set had the lining delaminate. Can't trust the rest of them.
j-d wrote:
If it's like drum brakes on other vehicles, there's a "short" and a "long" shoe on each brake and the "short" also called "primary" has to be on the forward side of the brake. Short shoe to your right on curb side, to your left on driver side. At least with hydraulic brakes...
Yes, the short pad went on facing the front of the trailer
RoyB wrote:
I'm thinking you may not have them setup correctly. Mine are set to around 5-6... They were adjusted on a back country road to start slidding the trailer brakes and then backed off a number from that sitting.
The only time I have a problem with mine is when they have sitting for awhile and I first use them... They stop everything OK but is is usally a very rough stop.
Out of habit now I will hook up the trailer and when I leave my yard I have a STOP SIGN about three hundred away and I will use the manual slide lever to stop my truck and trailer at the residential stop sign. This usually cleans up the sitting debress and possible moisture that has accumulated on the pads... Then I turn on my lights and flasher unit ON and do my safety walk-around the trailer checking all the lights...
Also tells me my brakes are working good before getting on the big roads...
Roy Ken
Sort of what I do too, but this long braking was new to me. My boat trailer and last rv stopped much differently. My last toy hauler locked up the wheels on gravelly roads.
K Charles wrote:
Who put them on and were they installed right? Were they burnished and then readjusted after the road test? Your controller should be adjusted for this trailer not the old one, try changing the boost.
I did the brakes and setup. Cranked it i1 notch at a time till I heard it drag. On the controller I did up the setting when picked up the trailer. Can't remember what it is now. I think I went to a 4 of 5. Thinking lousy braking was caused by rusted or Bad magnets, i didn't want to burn out whatever brake was working on the way home if only a few worked. Hence why I did a brake job right away.
Is it usual to have the brake controller turned all the way up?
