I would love to install an inverter under the hood of my 2016 3500HD D/A. Unfortunately the engine compartment is so packed I can't find room. I have the 220 amp alternator. Unfortunately it appears that the only place with enough room would require it to sit on top of the engine compartment fuse box. To mount the inverter elsewhere in the truck would involve long heavy cable to power a 2,000/4,000 watt inverter.I am not looking to power the RV, just the occasional chain saw or power tool. I have done it but had to bolt the cables on and then unbolt.As a last resort I have considered using Anderson Powerpole connectors but I would really love to permanently mount it. I would like to avoid storing the inverter elsewhere and installing when needed. Any ideas? Anyone done something similar?

Behind the seatKeep it out of the engine compartment

Behind a headlight fixture? there is usually some space between the fixture and the fender/front panel. I wouldn't be afraid to use the Anderson connectors, especially with your use requirements. That may be a better alternative since it's presumed the inverter in hand would be cooler than one mounted in the engine bay.

Not under the hood. Behind the seat or maybe under the truck in a "clean dry spot"? Or maybe in a toolbox in the bed of your truck? I would think that you would want your 110 volt service in the back and the 12 volt cables wouldn't be a whole lot longer.

Inverters hate dirt*, and engines get a hundred billion cubic feet of air sucked in and over them.*Heatsinks love to go nudeGet a shop to heliarc an aluminum carrier and use a TOW TRUCK JUMPER CABLE connector to join the battery with the happy camper inverter.Guess what? When light-fingered individuals see the connector on the connection end of the cables, they lose their lust to make off with them. Easy to install, not cheap (you need connection and cables for a diesel), and clean. Quicksilver had such a setup but there were few 24 volt rigs that needed a jump. The setup loses little purchase value over the years.So you have an inverter with say 12' of 2/0 cable wrapped around it. Buy just the connectors and roll your own with ultra heavy duty cast copper lugs permanently bolted onto the inverter.Under hood is bad juju.

I have a 600WATT PSW AIMS Power Inverter install under my rear seat in my truck. I already ran a 4AWG cable fused for 100AMPS back there for my Blue Sea 6-position Fuse panel and have two Ham Radio main units located here as well... Easy access to frame ground point...I ran one 120VAC output to a panel mount behind the truck bed side panel close to the tail gate. The other 120VAC socket is available to plug into just by raising the rear seat... I actually have a short 120VAC multi head extension cord up under one of the front seats... Each 120VAC socket is rated at 300WATTSWorks out great for me... I very seldom need this much power but I like it being a pure sine wave model. Never have to worry about burning up any of electrical or electronic items...The most it gets used is using my MR Coffee grinder brewing up my good ole fresh made bean coffee over a camp fire - then I pour this up into a coffee mug... I picked mine up from AMAZON back in 2009. Got one for the truck and one for the POPUP TRAILER... Both still going strong... They were only $159 back then each...google imageI switch mine on-off with a BLUE SEA DC switchRoy Ken

Under hood inverter install? Chev 3500HD | Good Sam Community

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jul 25, 2016
I hauled my Trace 4024 alternator around with a 25' long pair of 2/0 jumper cables for a year before it first went into Quicksilver then it migrated to the generator shed. Two handles on the inverter and 2 trips the second to fetch the cables. Nothing I care to manhandle requires wattage in excess of a thousand.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Jul 25, 2016
ktmrfs wrote:
beemerphile1 wrote:
ktmrfs wrote:
another option. can the second alternator be configured to supply 120VAC....

There were two optional electrical systems, one system does have two alternators, mine has a single large alternator.

sorry about the missunderstanding. However, how about adding the second alternator?? the bracket is already there, and changing the serpentine belt to the dual alternator would let you drive it.

Might be easier to set up than the factory dual alternator setup.

Nah, I have an extra inverter and cables. There is no reason to go to the added expense and complexity of adding an alternator.
ktmrfs
Explorer II
Jul 25, 2016
beemerphile1 wrote:
ktmrfs wrote:
another option. can the second alternator be configured to supply 120VAC....

There were two optional electrical systems, one system does have two alternators, mine has a single large alternator.

sorry about the missunderstanding. However, how about adding the second alternator?? the bracket is already there, and changing the serpentine belt to the dual alternator would let you drive it.

Might be easier to set up than the factory dual alternator setup.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Jul 25, 2016
ktmrfs wrote:
another option. can the second alternator be configured to supply 120VAC....

There were two optional electrical systems, one system does have two alternators, mine has a single large alternator.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jul 23, 2016
I loved the Oklahoma (origin) and Texas alternator modification units. So simple, so cheap, so hazardous.

One burp from the engine and the 120vac 700Hz output shoots to 400 volts.

Dust covered heat exchangers be they internal or external hate dust and dirt with a flaming passion.
ktmrfs
Explorer II
Jul 23, 2016
another option. can the second alternator be configured to supply 120VAC?? I know there are kits to do that and maybe have a controller to have it either supply 120VAC or 12VDC?

It may take either adding the manual high idle control to the truck, or if it is like my 2016 Denali, it came with the manual high idle option.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jul 23, 2016
MrWizard wrote:
Behind the seat
Keep it out of the engine compartment

Best advice in thread.. Inverters do not like the kind of heat that happens in modern engnies.. Older engines were kept cooler but modern engines often get up to temps well over 200 degrees.. And it takes some special engineering for electronics to love that kind of heat.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jul 22, 2016
What I dislike about smaller Anderson Power Pole connectors is a good shake and they separate. What I dislike about about larger Anderson Power Pole Connectors is they are fussy about how they are assembled. One tiny mis step and the connectors do not lock correctly.

Try a REAL connector like a GROTE tractor trailer dual connection which has a lid that flops down protecting the conductors when not in use, in use the lid locks the cables to the box with a lip. These connectors accept good size wire.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Jul 22, 2016
Allstar Terminal Connectors seem to be the ones commonly used for tow truck cable disconnect systems, they accept a maximum of 6 gauge wire.

Anderson Powerpole has connectors that take 1/0 and connectors that take 3/0.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Jul 22, 2016
Okay, you've convinced of what I already expected. The permanent installation in the engine compartment isn't a great idea.

I think I will go with plan B, use plug in connectors and store the inverter elsewhere when not in use. I will consider the Powerpole connectors and look into tow truck accessories. I have seen connectors permanently mounted in the grille of trucks but didn't pay much attention to them. I won't be putting connectors in the grille though.

I have the factory inverter and an additional 400 watt inverter inside the passenger compartment already. I do not want to run 20' or more round trip cable for the 2,000/4,000 watt inverter.

Battery powered tools are great and I have a dozen or so, but they cannot do the work of real 110v power tools.

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Under hood inverter install? Chev 3500HD

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