UPDATE: Mounting temporary fans Norcold 1201LRIM

[Canadian_Rainbi]

I thought it would be clearer to start a new post than continue with my previous one: Original thread

Fridge is in a slide and does not have a roof vent. One of the original fans has failed, the right hand one in the photo below.

We are in southern Mexico, no techs, fewer parts.

I cannot pull the fridge to replace the fan(s)--I do not have the strength or stamina anymore. I am hoping for a temporary fix to last me until we get home in April.

I need answers to a couple of questions. Or other suggestions:

I found 120mm 12VDC fans at a computer store here. They draw 260mA. However they have a plastic body and blades. A bit concerned with heat issues.

1) Where to place them?

I am thinking that I could make a support from aluminum flat or angle stock and place one or both fans above the existing fans. I would have to anchor the aluminum at the lower edge of the upper vent.
All access would be from the top vent.
I could take the 12V positive from the wires to the thermal switch at the top fins.

2) Where should I make the negative connection? I am pretty sure that the white and black wires in this photo are the - and + 12 feeds.

Do I need to be concerned about heat for the wiring I have to add? Regular stranded automotive type wire is available, I'd have to hunt for high temp wire.

3) Or should I try to fit one of the fans in the lower part? There is very little room here and I could not place the fan so that is would blow directly upwards. Again, heat here could be a problem.

Thanks,

Art

PS to Doug:

"If the noise you hear STOPS when you open the refer door, it is the rear 2 cooling fans. The ONLY way to access those fans is to pull the refer. There are 2 fans and a fan tstat. REPLACE both fans and the fan TSTAT. Also, run a 2 wire from each side of the fan tstat down the back of the refer and terminate at the rear bottom. Use this 2 wire to test and jump the fans to come ON in case the fan tstat fails again(very common). Doug"

Wish I had followed this advice that you posted in response to my query about noisy fans back in June of last year. :S

[Canadian_Rainbi]

trailrider wrote:
Look at page 21-23 on baffles for slideout mounted.
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncold1200.pdf

Yes, the one on the top of page 22 is what I was thinking of. There are none of those baffles in our rig. There are a few places where the clearance is slightly over an inch. Don't the RV builders read the specs?

Mind you my new fans are at the level of the bottom edge of the upper vent but something like that shown should work.

I have located a source here in Zihuatanejo for some galvanized sheet metal and will try to get something in place. Working from the outside will make it awkward but not impossible.

[trailrider]

Look at page 21-23 on baffles for slideout mounted.
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncold1200.pdf

[Canadian_Rainbi]

UPDATE

Mid day as the sun reached that side of the rig with 87F ambient air temp the fins were about 110F This evening at 6:30, the fins are at 99F Problem: Food temp has risen to around 45F

Yesterday, before replacing the lower vent cover the food temp was 38F

I have not yet put the top vent cover back in place.

This is the best side view I can get to the fans and the fins at the upper vent. Do I need a baffle from in front Outside edge) of the fans to the bottom corner of the condensor fins?

[Canadian_Rainbi]

Thinking that the original fan wasn't working because of a faulty switch I bypassed it again but still no luck. At least the new ones are working!

I just realised that the new fans weren't wired to go through the thermal switch. Thinking that the original fan wasn't working because of a faulty switch I bypassed it again but still no luck. Here are a few photos from my blog.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

Today I connected the modified wiring: I added wires using spade connectors to parallel the original fans so no existing wires needed to be cut and spliced. Figured it would be easier to do and also easier to return to normal if and when I replace the fans.

It seems to be working so far, I'll watch the cooling for the rest of the day then post photos if it continues to do so.

One weird thing, the one still working fan didn't start up after I returned power. When this first happened, that fan had stopped then started working again. Maybe I should just hit it with a stick!

By the way, the new fans are 3 Watt fans, only draw 260mA each but they are much closer to the fins.

[dougrainer]

Executive wrote:

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
That looks pretty effective but would be no help in our case. Our fridge is in the slide and does not have a roof vent.

My mistake as you referred to the top vent thinking it was a roof vent. If your fridge is not cooling properly then the simplest solution is a small room fan, about $15/WalMart and bungee cord it to the outside vent. I don't think it matters much. Just before mine failed, I had to do just that with the lower vent. Having the air passing across the tubes cooled it enough to maintain the temps inside the box. You have to be plugged in though so that may be an issue for you. The fridge does NOT have to be removed. You might find some strapping Mexican lad that would help/pull the box forward enough for you to get in there and replace the one that's not working. If you replace one, you should replace both. Also, make sure the replacements are ball bearing fans....Dennis

Here is the fan I used. YMMV

The "TUBES" do NOT have to have air flowing over them. It is the CONDENSOR fins at the top of the cooling unit that is critical for the fresh cooler air to flow thru and remove the heat. Roof top vent, not much problem. SLIDE installed refer with upper and lower doors, it "can" be a problem due to lack of clearance at the top of the fins and then flowing out the upper door. You MUST have some type of baffle/wood separator between the inner part of the outside wall and the Condensor fins to make sure the air flow thru those fins. IF there is a gap between the fins and the outer wall, you will not get the best flow of cool air thru the fins. the MORE air that flows THRU the fins, the better it will cool. Doug

[Canadian_Rainbi]

Executive wrote:

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
That looks pretty effective but would be no help in our case. Our fridge is in the slide and does not have a roof vent.

My mistake as you referred to the top vent thinking it was a roof vent. If your fridge is not cooling properly then the simplest solution is a small room fan, about $15/WalMart and bungee cord it to the outside vent. I don't think it matters much. Just before mine failed, I had to do just that with the lower vent. Having the air passing across the tubes cooled it enough to maintain the temps inside the box. You have to be plugged in though so that may be an issue for you. The fridge does NOT have to be removed. You might find some strapping Mexican lad that would help/pull the box forward enough for you to get in there and replace the one that's not working. If you replace one, you should replace both. Also, make sure the replacements are ball bearing fans....Dennis

Here is the fan I used. YMMV

It is working now quite well after this temporary fix which I made weeks ago. I need something that will get me home. I'll have a shot using what I have available here and see how it works as we work our way north. If I find it necessary I should be able to find better fans in Puerto Vallarta or Mazatlan next month.

[Executive45]

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
That looks pretty effective but would be no help in our case. Our fridge is in the slide and does not have a roof vent.

My mistake as you referred to the top vent thinking it was a roof vent. If your fridge is not cooling properly then the simplest solution is a small room fan, about $15/WalMart and bungee cord it to the outside vent. I don't think it matters much. Just before mine failed, I had to do just that with the lower vent. Having the air passing across the tubes cooled it enough to maintain the temps inside the box. You have to be plugged in though so that may be an issue for you. The fridge does NOT have to be removed. You might find some strapping Mexican lad that would help/pull the box forward enough for you to get in there and replace the one that's not working. If you replace one, you should replace both. Also, make sure the replacements are ball bearing fans....Dennis

Here is the fan I used. YMMV

[Canadian_Rainbi]

That looks pretty effective but would be no help in our case. Our fridge is in the slide and does not have a roof vent.

[Executive45]

Here's what I did to mine. Hope this helps..Dennis











I wired the four fans in parallel and used a piece of kite string with a small bolt attached to drop down from the roof to the fridge opening. I then used the string as a pull wire to get the wiring to the back of the fridge. I put a switch in so I could activate the fans when needed. I used 14ga automotive wire and connected it to the brown wire I believe. Please use a meter to verify it's 12VDC. You can hook the fans up to any 12VDC source......Dennis

[Old-Biscuit]

It is better to install them at top of fridge so the fans pull air across the condenser fins (section of cooling fins at top of fridge) as that is where the ammonia vapor gets condensed back into liquid....the more ammonia liquid the better cooling effect downstream

Run wiring along left side (opposite of burner stack)

Switch 'positive' side (ON/OFF Toggle)

[Fishinghat]

The easiest solution would be to install several of the computer type fans on the inside of the lower vent, using nylon ties. That's what I did. I used five fans and connected all of them to a switch. I had a twelve volt bar to draw power off along with a ground, so for me that was an easy choice. You may have a similar bar on the lower left. It is black with wires connected. Good luck.

Obviously, fans on top are more efficient and would be the first choice, but as you indicated access is the problem with that option. You could always have the frig pulled out later at a RV repair facility back in the states later.