Victron/lifeblue system 99% functional except

[Mako_Kupo]

Hey everyone, been a while! I have my solar system installed, it is all Victron (5000w 12v quattro inverter)equipment with LiFeBlue(3x 200ah lithium)batteries. That means I am using the lynx bus bar and shunt to connect everything to the batteries safely. Most of the system works, I can put power in the batteries and use that power on 110v, can’t test out the 12 V yet but that shouldn’t be a problem. All of the information on the system is viewed through the color control screen made by Victron, and everything appears to be working properly .

However, I have gone through two lynx shunts. this is a fuse block that goes between the two busbars, it holds an 800 amp CNN fuse. The fuse has not blown, but both times I installed a new shunt it worked for a split second and then sparked, never to show a sign of life again . The shunt limits current to the batteries, and also prevents overcharge and over discharge. Its a ‘smart’ bus bar, and the spark appeared to happen on the small computer board next to the fuse in the shunt.

Even with the shunt not working, I can still use the system normally but i wont until its 100%. I can put up pictures when I get home in about an hour or two, but any ideas or thoughts will be helpful. Thank you all!

[2oldman]

CA Traveler wrote:


Those three boxes are adding extra connections which are not desirable in a 12V high current setup.

thanks. Yeah, high performance systems should not be 12v.

[CA_Traveler]

The shunt and other items are inside the Lynx Shunt. The shunt is on the negative buss, fuse on the positive buss and the control board in between.

Those three boxes are adding extra connections which are not desirable in a 12V high current setup.

[2oldman]

jharrell wrote:
Make sure the temp monitor is on the right battery post, the only diagram I can find for the lynx shunt shows it on the positive post (from am solar):

I'm having a hard time finding a shunt in that diagram. I thought they were supposed to go on the negative side.

[CA_Traveler]

Look for companies that service/upgrade boats AND have experience with your equipment. There are some in the NE.

He justified the 12V choice. While there is no information on battery space - 3 12V is parallel is likely more power than 2 12V in series.

[jharrell]

Make sure the temp monitor is on the right battery post, the only diagram I can find for the lynx shunt shows it on the positive post (from am solar):

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/562bc73de4b0908330f67ee0/t/5bcf960c08522908f02ec2b0/154033102...

My Magnum temp monitor didn't like being on the positive post but thankfully did no damage, the manual showed it being on the negative.

One thing I don't like about Victron is their documentation, Magnum has them beat here, can even find a manual to the Lynx shunt from Victron.

[Mako_Kupo]

2oldman wrote:

Mako Kupo wrote:
this post is not about why i chose 12v over 24v, thank you though!

Ok, but you just explained to Gordon why you chose 12v.

Judging by your answer about solar I'm not sure you understand the concept of wiring things in series.

i know how to wire in series. it is redundant now. i heard back from AM Solar again, they are having someone else get involved now as well. we will see!

[2oldman]

Mako Kupo wrote:
this post is not about why i chose 12v over 24v, thank you though!

Ok, but you just explained to Gordon why you chose 12v.

Judging by your answer about solar I'm not sure you understand the concept of wiring things in series.

[Mako_Kupo]

2oldman wrote:

GordonThree wrote:
"Everything" being 12v is where I'd get stuck too.

A DC DC converter easily solves that issue.

this post is not about why i chose 12v over 24v, thank you though!

[Mako_Kupo]

time2roll wrote:
Have you contacted Victron?

yes, we have been going back and forth for weeks now. both them and the electrical engineer at AM Solar are stumped.

[Mako_Kupo]

GordonThree wrote:
What was more expensive at 24 volt? Just curious, not trying to undermine your decision.

"Everything" being 12v is where I'd get stuck too.

its tough remembering it all now, but from what i remember - in order to charge my battery bank from my alternator(motorhome) would have cost thousands of dollars, which is clearly insane. i dont have a generator or room for one, so charging from my alternator was a 100% must. then, i had very little room on my roof for 24v panels which tend to be larger. also, i already owned 950w of brand new 12v panels that were already set up and working great(goal zero yeti 1400).
i was stupid when i bought the goal zero and 12v panels, long story short i didnt have a ton of time to choose and there was no way i was building a full system in the time i had.
the lights, fans, switches, everything i bought is 12v and sadly i bought it all and installed before the solar system. unless i wanted to pull parts off the VERY recently finished camper and then spend more money, i was going with 12v.
another big reason was AM Solar is much more familiar with 12v systems, and could provide support. sadly, there support hasnt helped much but they have been trying.

[time2roll]

Have you contacted Victron?

[2oldman]

GordonThree wrote:
"Everything" being 12v is where I'd get stuck too.

A DC DC converter easily solves that issue.

[GordonThree]

What was more expensive at 24 volt? Just curious, not trying to undermine your decision.

"Everything" being 12v is where I'd get stuck too.

[2oldman]

Mako Kupo wrote:
edit: sorry, i forgot the main reason was the space on my roof is very lacking, i wouldnt have been able to fit more than 2-3 panels.

Main reason for 12v? I'm not following that.