Water Heater pilot light will not stay lit?

Thanks for the correction Chris. I learned something. Some of us spout an opinion without knowing the facts. Haven't played with one in many years and assumed it was a gas bulb due to the copper tube.

I read your blog and was very informative. I advise the OP to do the same.

Made me go out tonight and experiment. In your blog, in the example picture of testing the thermocouple, the meter was reading a little more than 11 mA. I measured a new one I've kept around just in case and the most I could get out of it was 5.8 mA. (using a grill lighter)

I'm well aware of differences in meter thermocouples (as in J and K types).

Are those for gas appliances made with different value outputs, requiring one to use a specific type?

Joe417 wrote:
If the thermocouple in question is like the one in the picture, it is a bulb type and the "wire" is not a wire but a copper tube. You can't crimp the tube too sharply or it won't transfer pressure to the control.

It has to fit the control and be installed snuggly.

What did you do with the extra 8 inches of thermocouple?

That's a standard thermocouple- no pressure at all. I did a write up of this type on this RV.net blog post- pictures of an Atwood, but the Suburban is functionally identical. While the copper is a tube, it is an electrical conductor- not a pressure tube.

If the thermocouple in question is like the one in the picture, it is a bulb type and the "wire" is not a wire but a copper tube. You can't crimp the tube too sharply or it won't transfer pressure to the control.

It has to fit the control and be installed snuggly.

What did you do with the extra 8 inches of thermocouple?

As a fisherman, I have a large assortment of single strand monofilament leader lines, and have cut 4" lengths of the different weight lines; from 8 lbs to 60 lbs. I put them all in a 16-18 ga. crimp butt connector, and crimped both ends of the butt. I find that these make a great cleaner for propane and gasoline jets.....no scratches or deforming the orifice...... For what it's worth.... Bob

That pilot orifice is an aluminum hood type- stamped, and with a very, very small hole- like .01". I've seen several water heater gas valves ruined by "cleaning" the pilot orifice with a drill or wire.

Used to be you could buy the orifice replacement (though used to be the whole burner with pilot assembly was under $20)- now I'm not sure. It looks like this one,


though I am not at all sure about it, and would not recommend it.

We been hearing that for years, but I don't know that one ever got ruined yet. The secret is, be careful. You gotta use what ya gotta use.

Dusty R wrote:
Never use a metal wire to clean a gas orifice, the orifice is made of soft brass and a metal wire can damage it.
Air, alcohol, bristle from a tooth brush.

Dusty

Dusty R wrote:
Never use a metal wire to clean a gas orifice, the orifice is made of soft brass and a metal wire can damage it.
Air, alcohol, bristle from a tooth brush.

Dusty

Acetylene torches are brass and the tool they use to clean them is an assortment of different sized metal wires. Just use the proper size and use care.

Never use a metal wire to clean a gas orifice, the orifice is made of soft brass and a metal wire can damage it.
Air, alcohol, bristle from a tooth brush.

Dusty

Thanks. I'll try that.

Bob

You can rod it out with one bristle from a wire brush.