WDH receiver slop - fixed with 2 1/2" shank, I think
I have an Equal-I-Zer 1400 WDH with 2" shank. About 1300# TW.
After 5 years and getting lots of slop in the 2", Class IV hitch receiver in my old F150, I was looking forward to see how things would work out with the Class 5, 2.5" hitch receiver in the new RAM 2500.
But in just one year the 2" shank rattled around in the 2" adapter almost as badly as in the old F150's Class 4. So I decided to try a 2.5" shank and get rid of the 2" adapter.
I just got the Curt 17128 2.5" shank, mounted the Equal-I-Zer head on it and briefly tested it. It fits in the RAM 2500's receiver very closely. There's little or no slop, and I can even get it stuck if pushed in too far.
I only got the Curt rather than a similar Equal-I-Zer shank because it was available locally and cheaper. It's about the same size but has 7 adjustment holes rather than the 6 in the Equal-I-Zer. In the rise position, you cannot use the bottom-most hole as the Equal-I-Zer tilt adjustment screw goes under the shank. But you can use that hole (now topmost) in the drop position.
We'll see how it works over the next year, but I'm optimistic that this solves the rattling and slop problem, as others have found.
After 5 years and getting lots of slop in the 2", Class IV hitch receiver in my old F150, I was looking forward to see how things would work out with the Class 5, 2.5" hitch receiver in the new RAM 2500.
But in just one year the 2" shank rattled around in the 2" adapter almost as badly as in the old F150's Class 4. So I decided to try a 2.5" shank and get rid of the 2" adapter.
I just got the Curt 17128 2.5" shank, mounted the Equal-I-Zer head on it and briefly tested it. It fits in the RAM 2500's receiver very closely. There's little or no slop, and I can even get it stuck if pushed in too far.
I only got the Curt rather than a similar Equal-I-Zer shank because it was available locally and cheaper. It's about the same size but has 7 adjustment holes rather than the 6 in the Equal-I-Zer. In the rise position, you cannot use the bottom-most hole as the Equal-I-Zer tilt adjustment screw goes under the shank. But you can use that hole (now topmost) in the drop position.
We'll see how it works over the next year, but I'm optimistic that this solves the rattling and slop problem, as others have found.
