What is the AGM Wall?
Mex described the "wall" one way, and LY describes it another way.
LY quote:
"My TPPL agm responds so well to the high amp recharge from a well depleted state that when I notice performance loss I intentionally drain it deeper just so that I can hit it with higher amps for longer. Odyssey AGM reconditioning procedure is to drain it to 10 volts under a high amp load and then apply no less than 40% at the 10 hour rate, until 14.7 is reached and amps taper to near zero, then repeat.
That brick wall on the amperage tends to get less too. When new the battery would brick wall at 0.0x amps, a year ago it would brick wall at 0.1 amp, now that is at the 0.28 amp area, and many solar only recharges will have it brickwall at the 0.4 amp range.
0.4a @ 14.7 brick wall indicates to me it is time for a well below 50% discharge and 65 amps applied until 14.7 is held, and 14,7 held until new brick wall established, back in the 0.2 to 0.3 range.
Your battery will be different"
A time ago, Mex said it was (ISTR) that when the amps got down to whatever (0.5 per 100 eg) showing they are full, you can crank up the voltage and get a brief jump in amps, which will then fall right back down, indicating the batts are so full, even raising the voltage won't make them accept more amps. That is the "wall" his way if I got that right.
So what is it? What does it mean for instance if the amps taper nicely,but stall at 1 amp per 100AH instead of dropping to 0.5 per 100?
Is that the "wall" and it is too high, so you need a recondition? Extra amps usually means they are going to heat.
Sometimes after bottoming out, the amps will start to rise. That is heat, and should be stopped (turn off the charger!). But what if it just stalls and does not go up or down? What does it all mean Alphie?? :(
LY quote:
"My TPPL agm responds so well to the high amp recharge from a well depleted state that when I notice performance loss I intentionally drain it deeper just so that I can hit it with higher amps for longer. Odyssey AGM reconditioning procedure is to drain it to 10 volts under a high amp load and then apply no less than 40% at the 10 hour rate, until 14.7 is reached and amps taper to near zero, then repeat.
That brick wall on the amperage tends to get less too. When new the battery would brick wall at 0.0x amps, a year ago it would brick wall at 0.1 amp, now that is at the 0.28 amp area, and many solar only recharges will have it brickwall at the 0.4 amp range.
0.4a @ 14.7 brick wall indicates to me it is time for a well below 50% discharge and 65 amps applied until 14.7 is held, and 14,7 held until new brick wall established, back in the 0.2 to 0.3 range.
Your battery will be different"
A time ago, Mex said it was (ISTR) that when the amps got down to whatever (0.5 per 100 eg) showing they are full, you can crank up the voltage and get a brief jump in amps, which will then fall right back down, indicating the batts are so full, even raising the voltage won't make them accept more amps. That is the "wall" his way if I got that right.
So what is it? What does it mean for instance if the amps taper nicely,but stall at 1 amp per 100AH instead of dropping to 0.5 per 100?
Is that the "wall" and it is too high, so you need a recondition? Extra amps usually means they are going to heat.
Sometimes after bottoming out, the amps will start to rise. That is heat, and should be stopped (turn off the charger!). But what if it just stalls and does not go up or down? What does it all mean Alphie?? :(
