What type of battery lugs?

My memory says it was about $12 including eight feet of #2 wire, two ring terminals, and de-oxidation.

enblethen wrote:
I was able to take cable to West Marine and make up a new one using their tools. I bought new cable, crimp terminals and de-oxidation compound from them. the marine multi-strand cable worked great. Coated cable prior to crimping with the de-ox compound.
No charge for using their tool.

I am bettin that was EXPENSIVE but the "free" use of the tools made it not hurt so much.

In my case when adding 2 additional AGM batteries to the first, I used 1/0 ga welding cable and copper lugs. Got the heavy little cast iron crimp tool that you hit real hard with a hammer....worked great. Then used electrical solder and then heat shrink.
AGM so no corrosion worries.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-D800-Hammer-Indent-Crimping/dp/B006VU5WX8

Maybe a 'barrel post lug' will fill your needs.

Its no big deal i think anyone who is going to solder their own lug will already know the difference. Or at least remember that there is a difference and read the package while at the store. Lowes and Home Depot around me sell both. Although ive never looked close at their electronics solder and flux. For that stuff i buy from online RC shops. 63/37 is what i like for shakey coffee hands.

Theres a store on ebay that has the lug, solder, and heat shrink for $6.50 each. Thats for 2 gauge. Was going to ask his opinion on tinned versus bare. Both are the same price.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Amber color hardware solder FLUX is cheap and effective for larger cables

That's some of the worst advice ever. Most of what you describe is "acid" flux, made for soldering plumbing. It's corrosive, and should never be used for electrical soldering.

The most acid resistant terminal for a battery is lead coated copper.

Copper can be crimped. Lead crimps like a lead balloon floats.

Tin offers some protection against battery acid but it will turn gray then black then the green appears.

Lead coated copper lasts for years, however, it is a hazard to solder. And lead is so soft that crimping may make it flow down to the point of exposing the copper beneath.

I have an MSA Mine Safety Appliance, full face respirator with Pb filter cartridges.

But I see now the primary source Quick Cable has de-listed lead coated copper battery terminals.

If I must use bare copper ring terminals I dunk them into molten lead quickly then shake the assembled terminal. This is usually used for salt laden seashore air connections like service panel wire and cable connections. Lead/aluminum interfaces are approved in panels. But in this one case I melt the PVC insulation into the cable stranding. It stops salt air from traveling up the strands of copper. Circuit breakers get partially dunked into low viscosity anti corrosion compound. Tropical seashore dripping humidity has got to be one of the more challenging jobsites I have endured.

NO KORRODE is nothing more or less than dollar-a-gallon cosmoline. It does zero to remove corrosion.

Vaseline Petroleum Jelly turns to liquid at 110F. Just keep it in mind. 1950's cars with 160 degree thermostats are a long way from 20-teens pizza ovens.

I used copper lugs but tin coated should work fine too.
Just follow the procedure Mexicowander spelled out. You do have a propane torch right? I followed up with heat shrink tubing with the heat activated adhesive just to make it look good but that's probably not necessary.

Any opinions on copper versus tin coated?