Winterizing a Residential Refrigerator

[NY24]

I have a 2015, Dynamax DX3-37RB Super C motorhome I bought new in May, 2014. I've called Dynamax but, have not received a clear answer to my question (and the Forest River website leaves a lot to be desired too). My rig has a 23 cu' Frigidaire residential refrigerator. It's a deluxe model with french doors and, a lower pull out freezer. The unit has a water filter and, there's ice and water on the door with a second ice maker in the pull out freezer. Using compressed air (set at 40 psi) I believe I have blown out all the water. When I pull the water filter (located in the refrigerator section), I see that some of the pink RV antifreeze I added to the water fill hose, has made it to the filter. I get only air coming out of the chilled
water dispenser and, all the ice is out of both ice maker trays. I can't see any pink antifreeze at either ice maker though. When the water filter is removed, I don't know if RV antifreeze is able to be "pushed" through to either ice maker. I did see pink droplets when I pull the filter so, I know that RV antifreeze did make it to the feed side of the water filter. Would the filter, when in place, remove the pink color from the RV antifreeze but, allow actual antifreeze to reach the two ice makers? The Frigidaire manual advises to have a "service contractor" drain the fridge if it will be stored unused in a freezing environment. I plan on leaving my rig plugged into a 15 amp, 110VAC line all winter but, don't want to run heat so, I expect that my
rig will reach freezing temperatures inside. I upgraded the two 12VDC deep cycle house batteries to six, 6VDC batteries wired in parallel~series (the original house batteries would run down in less that 24 hours just running the fridge). I expect that leaving my rig plugged in will keep the batteries charged so, freezing batteries should not be a concern. I was able to hear air coming through the residential washing machine and, the 1.5 gallons of RV antifreeze I poured into the washer tub, drained so, I expect I've got that appliance covered. YouTube videos on winterization have not answered my question. I'm hoping that a knowledgeable forum member can help. Thanks in advance!

[dougrainer]

NY24 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
1. Some residentials have a bypass plug that is installed when the in refer water filter is removed
2. The in refer water filter will REMOVE the pink from RV antifreeze and will come out clear
3. What we do is,
A. install a jumper to the Icemaker motor water solenoid and blow it out with compressed air
B. IF you have a combo water AND ice thru the door you must then push the lever to open the water fill solenoid. Be advised that there is a water tank on the back wall of the refer(inside) that fills up to get the chilled water. THAT water will usually not all be pushed out, but most will. As long as the water solenoids are blown out you will have no freezing problems.
4. This is a GOOD time to throw out the old refer water filter and buy a new one to install in the spring. Doug

How & where is a "jumper"attached to the Icemaker motor water solenoid? Is this jumper a water line or an electric wire? TIA!

There are just 2 brands of Icemaker model types. The 1 model Icemaker you take the white plastic motor cover off and you will have some holes in the front case with letters by each hole. You insert a wire between V and L and either close the freeze door or tape the light switch closed and this will activate the water solenoid for the icemaker (NOT for water thru the door). The OTHER type, you must manually cycle the Icemaker 3 or 4 times while blowing out. There is usually not enough access from the back outside access door to get to the water solenoid. Doug

[NY24]

dougrainer wrote:
1. Some residentials have a bypass plug that is installed when the in refer water filter is removed
2. The in refer water filter will REMOVE the pink from RV antifreeze and will come out clear
3. What we do is,
A. install a jumper to the Icemaker motor water solenoid and blow it out with compressed air
B. IF you have a combo water AND ice thru the door you must then push the lever to open the water fill solenoid. Be advised that there is a water tank on the back wall of the refer(inside) that fills up to get the chilled water. THAT water will usually not all be pushed out, but most will. As long as the water solenoids are blown out you will have no freezing problems.
4. This is a GOOD time to throw out the old refer water filter and buy a new one to install in the spring. Doug

How & where is a "jumper"attached to the Icemaker motor water solenoid? Is this jumper a water line or an electric wire? TIA!

[dougrainer]

1. Some residentials have a bypass plug that is installed when the in refer water filter is removed
2. The in refer water filter will REMOVE the pink from RV antifreeze and will come out clear
3. What we do is,
A. install a jumper to the Icemaker motor water solenoid and blow it out with compressed air
B. IF you have a combo water AND ice thru the door you must then push the lever to open the water fill solenoid. Be advised that there is a water tank on the back wall of the refer(inside) that fills up to get the chilled water. THAT water will usually not all be pushed out, but most will. As long as the water solenoids are blown out you will have no freezing problems.
4. This is a GOOD time to throw out the old refer water filter and buy a new one to install in the spring. Doug

[joshuajim]

5thwheeleroldman wrote:
Winterizing a residential fridge might not be a good idea. Maybe just leave it running? Due to frequent transfers, etc, years ago I stored a nearly new fridge. When I got ready to use it again a couple of years later, all the freon had leaked out and the repair guy said it would probably be better to just buy a new fridge. He would have to replace compressor, etc because seals dried out. Maybe things have changed now?

Leaving a residential refer running will not keep it from freezing if the temp in the coach drops below 32. It has no method to "heat" itself.

I think your "repair guy" had little knowledge of refigerators. The compressor is completely sealed and there are no seals to atmospheric air which could leak. While it may have had the freon leak out it wasn't from a seal.

More likely he makes more profit from selling new than repairing (and a lot less work),

[We_Cant_Wait]

When I did ours (Sounds the same as yours) I used air to clear the lines first, then pumped pink stuff thru the water dispenser and made slushy ice cubes. One note though the water filter in the fridge WILL remove the pink color from the Antifreeze so I would take a slight taste to ensure that the antifreeze was fully thru the system. Then in the spring I'll run fresh water thru the system, make a couple batches of ice cubes, and then replace the filter. I'll keep the old filter and mark it ANTIFREEZE and then be able to reuse it again the next fall.

[5thwheeleroldma]

Winterizing a residential fridge might not be a good idea. Maybe just leave it running? Due to frequent transfers, etc, years ago I stored a nearly new fridge. When I got ready to use it again a couple of years later, all the freon had leaked out and the repair guy said it would probably be better to just buy a new fridge. He would have to replace compressor, etc because seals dried out. Maybe things have changed now?

[KarenS144]

I know a lot people use air to blow out the lines but we've never done it. When we winterized our Newmar Ventana, we made slushies 2X instead of ice cubes. We left the filters in and will make 2 or more batches of real ice before we actually use any.

The washer was run on both hot and cold water until the pink stuff was seen in the tub and then drained.

Our Ventana has a toilet spray, outside shower and a drinking water faucet next to the kitchen faucet. Not sure about yours but don't forget them if you do!

Ours is plugged in which should keep the house batteries charged but we're not sure about the chassis battery and need to investigate that further.

Winterizing is SO depressing!