Wiring mess behind converter panel
Am just in the process of tidying up the mess 'o spaghetti behind the converter. Is there any reason why I shouldn't bundle the pos. or neg. wires (each in their own bundles) with zip ties? Also, ...
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This is how it ended up. I didn't hear anyone say there's no way you can do that, so I went ahead and bundled the wires. I used tie-wraps because that's what I had on hand. Sure was a lot of excess wire I trimmed off.
The new box on the left contains relays, LV transf. and a current sensing relay for heaters I installed. We now have 3 permanently mounted recessed wall heaters - in bedroom, bathroom and living/kitchen area each with their own individual thermostats. The heaters automatically shut down when the total load gets to 30 amps (adjustable). All 120 volt branch circuits except AC and heaters now run through the control box. Detail to follow in another post.
Not at all impressed with the factory workmanship in wiring terminations and splices. Some stranded #14 LV wires only had about 1/2 the strands into the terminals in the panel because they were cut off when stripped. Whoever does the work doesn't know how to use a wire stripper. One 120V connection to a breaker barely had any copper showing and the lug was compressed onto mostly plastic. Potential fire hazard. Two ground wires on bus in panel were totally loose. Potential shock hazard. Makes me wonder if the factory has any trained electricians on staff.
Next thing I'm going to do in there is put a piece of filler plywood in to seal up the 12x12" opening into the underbelly. There's quite a noticeable draft coming up from it (without fans on). Also going to pull out the 4" duct which goes into the underbelly space and back up into the kitchen, insulate it and re-install. The duct runs 4-5' in a cold space.
Now heading out the door for our first camping trip of the season and will get a good test of the new heating system on the weekend.
The new box on the left contains relays, LV transf. and a current sensing relay for heaters I installed. We now have 3 permanently mounted recessed wall heaters - in bedroom, bathroom and living/kitchen area each with their own individual thermostats. The heaters automatically shut down when the total load gets to 30 amps (adjustable). All 120 volt branch circuits except AC and heaters now run through the control box. Detail to follow in another post.
Not at all impressed with the factory workmanship in wiring terminations and splices. Some stranded #14 LV wires only had about 1/2 the strands into the terminals in the panel because they were cut off when stripped. Whoever does the work doesn't know how to use a wire stripper. One 120V connection to a breaker barely had any copper showing and the lug was compressed onto mostly plastic. Potential fire hazard. Two ground wires on bus in panel were totally loose. Potential shock hazard. Makes me wonder if the factory has any trained electricians on staff.
Next thing I'm going to do in there is put a piece of filler plywood in to seal up the 12x12" opening into the underbelly. There's quite a noticeable draft coming up from it (without fans on). Also going to pull out the 4" duct which goes into the underbelly space and back up into the kitchen, insulate it and re-install. The duct runs 4-5' in a cold space.
Now heading out the door for our first camping trip of the season and will get a good test of the new heating system on the weekend.
